tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-14803875588328734002024-02-07T22:01:17.645-08:00NORTH COAST NATIVES landscaping and nursery (formerly Island Horticultural Services)Serving Bainbridge Island, North Kitsap, and Port Townsend, WA
Web site at http:/north-coast-natives.vpweb.comSamihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18192671719592689432noreply@blogger.comBlogger44125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1480387558832873400.post-53710176338041965972014-11-08T12:46:00.003-08:002015-08-14T18:54:25.178-07:00Propagating native plants II<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">You may find that the
easiest and least expensive way to obtain many native species is to grow your
own.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>You don’t need to be an
expert or own a greenhouse to propagate native plants.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>By choosing more promising plant
material and paying attention to some simple details, most gardeners should be
able to grow many native species from seeds or cuttings.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">When we propagate plants, we
are facilitating natural processes that plants do all by themselves.
Understanding a bit about the reproductive b</span><!--[if gte vml 1]><v:shape
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</v:shape><![endif]--><!--[if !vml]--><img align="right" height="128" hspace="12" src="file://localhost/Users/Aimee/Library/Caches/TemporaryItems/msoclip/0clip_image004.jpg" v:shapes="_x0000_s1027" vspace="12" width="103" /><!--[endif]--><span style="font-family: Arial;">iology of plants can help to improve our success in
harnessing these processes. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">There are two categories of
plant multiplication in nature, and in horticulture: vegetative<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>and sexual reproduction.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">When plants multiply
vegetatively- through stoloniferous growth in nature, or in propagation from
cuttings, layering, etc.- all of the resulting plants will be genetically
identical, though they may be completely separate physically. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">When plants grow from seed,
genes get shuffled around and the offspring will be similar, but never
identical, to the parent plant(s). This is sexual reproduction. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">Growing natives from seed</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Arial;">Many plants have
hermaphrodite (in botanical floras, these may be termed “bisexual” or
“perfect”) flowers- male and female parts in the same structure. Dioecious
plants have separate female and male flowers on different plants (</span><span style="font-family: "Arial Italic";">Aruncus dioicus</span><span style="font-family: Arial;">, Goatsbeard). Some species (including several of our
native Sidalceas) have a gynodioecious system: some plants have hermaphrodite
flowers and some only female flowers. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">Many plants with
hermaphrodite flowers are capable of selfing: that is, the flower can
self-pollinate. Some will only self, some possess mechanisms that encourage
outcrossing (pollen morphology, arrangement of male and female parts, genetic
self-incompatibility etc.) and some do both with equal facility. Outcrossing
increases genetic variation and thus population fitness; selfing ensures
reproduction when populations are very small and isolated or pollinators are
scarce. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">Seeds can usually be
collected for home garden use without impacting wild plant populations.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Never decimate the seed output of a
small wild population.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Most seeds
are ripe when they turn dark brown or black (sometimes red) and capsules or
pods are turning brown and papery, and/or opening up.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Some seeds will be spilled almost immediately by the plant,
while others may be retained in pods longer.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>A few (including many in the daisy family, and others like </span><span style="font-family: "Arial Italic";">Asclepias</span><span style="font-family: Arial;"> and some of the Mallows) will continue to ripen days or weeks after the
flowering stem has been cut from the plant. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">One problem about collecting
wild seed is that plants are often hard to identify by the time the seed is
ripe. When you find plants in bloom from which you want to collect seed, ake
notes on their locations , flag them, and return when seeds are ripe- a few
weeks to a couple of months.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">In general, best germination
is obtained from seeds planted the same year they are shed, but when stored under
cool, dry conditions, most will</span><!--[if gte vml 1]><v:shape id="_x0000_s1028"
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</v:shape><![endif]--><!--[if !vml]--><img align="right" height="95" hspace="12" src="file://localhost/Users/Aimee/Library/Caches/TemporaryItems/msoclip/0clip_image008.jpg" v:shapes="_x0000_s1029" vspace="12" width="126" /><!--[endif]--><span style="font-family: Arial;"> last several years (particular larger seeds, seeds
in the legume family, etc.)<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>A few
species need to be planted very soon after ripening (e.g. </span><span style="font-family: "Arial Italic";">Trillium</span><span style="font-family: Arial;"> and possibly </span><span style="font-family: "Arial Italic";">Delphinium</span><span style="font-family: Arial;">). <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">Many seeds, particularly in
temperate and colder regions, possess dormancy mechanisms to delay germination
until conditions are favorable. Timing, day length, temperature, light
conditions and available moisture may be factors in a seed’s readiness to
germinate. In nature, some seeds rely upon being consumed and then passed
through the GI tract of animals, and so there may be a hard seed coat or fleshy
covering that needs to be broken down before germination can occur. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">Many seeds, including most
natives, benefit from pretreatment. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">For some plant species with
thick, hard seed coats, additional pretreatment will include some kind of
mechanical or chemical action on the seed coat prior to planting. This can be
accomplished through presoaking in water for 24 hours, fermentation, or
“scarification”- gentle nicking with a blade or abrasion with sandpaper (e.g.
Lupine).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">Some seeds with fleshy
coverings must be washed thoroughly before other pretreatment or planting, as
the covering may contain germination-retarding compounds.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Other fleshy fruits must be fermented
to facilitate seed germination.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">Most PNW and other
cool-temperate region species require or greatly benefit from a period of cold
to break dormancy. This means at minimum several weeks of exposure to cold.
This feature of dormancy ensures that germination will occur in spring, giving
seedlings the chance to mature before the following winter.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">Stratification is a method
of storing seeds dry in the freezer or (preferably) moist in the refrigerator,
often in moist peat, vermiculite or sphagnum moss, or on damp paper towels.
Published protocols for various species advise weeks or months of
stratification. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">Vernalization is the easiest
approach by far: just plant out the seeds in pots or flats of soil, and leave
them outdoors over winter.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In many
species, germination will commence in spring.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In some species (including </span><span style="font-family: "Arial Italic";">Lilium spp</span><span style="font-family: Arial;">, </span><span style="font-family: "Arial Italic";">Trillium spp</span><span style="font-family: Arial;">, </span><span style="font-family: "Arial Italic";">Iris tenax</span><span style="font-family: Arial;">, </span><span style="font-family: "Arial Italic";">Cornus
canadensis, Delphinium menziesii</span><span style="font-family: Arial;">), two
springs must pass. This is called double dormancy. Germination occurs under the
soil, usually with no aboveground sprout until the following year. The process
may sometimes be sped up by “tricking” the seed with a second period of cold
stratification in mid-summer.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">Most seeds can be planted in
good quality potting soil, or a mixture of potting soil and seed starting
mix.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>A soilless mix may be
preferred for some plant species that are prone to fungal diseases. The mix is
sterile and provides excellent drainage, but contains no nutrients, so that
seedlings must be pricked out and transferred to real soil as soon as true
leaves appear.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">For more durable seedlings,
it’s fine to plant all seeds in a single flat filled with soil.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Place seeds about two inches apart and
don’t l</span><!--[if gte vml 1]><v:shape id="_x0000_s1030" style='position:absolute;
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</v:shape><![endif]--><!--[if !vml]--><img align="right" height="85" hspace="12" src="file://localhost/Users/Aimee/Library/Caches/TemporaryItems/msoclip/0clip_image010.jpg" v:shapes="_x0000_s1030" vspace="12" width="113" /><!--[endif]--><span style="font-family: Arial;">eave them in the flat so long that they begin to
entwine their roots.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>They can be
scooped out individually for transplanting to 4” pots—my favorite tool for this
task is a teaspoon.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">Planting seeds individually
into recycled sixpacks or into plug trays greatly facilitates transplanting,
and protects delicate roots of seedlings that resent transplanting.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>These include many tap-rooted plants
like </span><span style="font-family: "Arial Italic";">Eriophyllum, Asclepias </span><span style="font-family: Arial;">and some Malvaceae, and those with latex in their
stems, notably anything in the poppy family (e.g. </span><span style="font-family: "Arial Italic";">Eschscholzia</span><span style="font-family: Arial;">, California Poppy) and the Apocynaceae (</span><span style="font-family: "Arial Italic";">Asclepias</span><span style="font-family: Arial;">).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">The two most common causes
of disappointment for novice seed planters are: <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">1. covering the seeds with
too much soil and <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: 13.0pt; mso-list: l1 level1 lfo2; tab-stops: list 13.0pt; text-indent: -13.0pt;">
<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-fareast-font-family: Arial;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">2.<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><!--[endif]--><span style="font-family: Arial;">allowing seeds to dry out after they have begun to
imbibe moisture.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">The general rule for
planting depth is that seeds should be covered with no more soil than a depth
equal to the shortest dimension of the seed—that is, for an oblong seed that is
.2 mm by 2 mm, planting depth is .2 mm.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Thin, papery seeds (as many Asteraceae and </span><span style="font-family: "Arial Italic";">Lilium</span><span style="font-family: Arial;">)
should have just enough soil on top of them to conceal them from view; very
small, round seeds are surface-sown. Seed that is so fine it’s hard to see or
to handle with precision can be evenly mixed with fine sand to facilitate even
sowing. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">Always sow into damp soil,
and tamp down carefully. Check protocols for your particular species; some
seeds (often very small) require continued exposure to light; these are
surface-sown and pressed lightly into the medium.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">Disappointments can also
arise from seed loss due to soil disturbance, rain splash, insect or bird
predation, etc.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Covering outdoor
seed containers with cloches of fine-grid poultry netting or (preferably)
hardware cloth will break the fall of rainwater and discourage foraging birds.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">Once germination becomes
possible in spring, the soil surface in seedling containers should be kept
evenly moist at all times.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Never
allow it to dry out, even briefly, as seeds that have begun to “imbibe” (absorb
water) will die if they have not produced enough root to reach down to moisture
retained lower in the soil.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Water
carefully with a fine spray or mist, to avoid seed loss through splashing or
washing seeds across the soil surface.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>In warm weather, watering may need to be done several times a day.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">Conversely, take care not to
over-water, as this encourages competing hitchhiker plants (moss, liverworts
and algae), can rot seeds or fledgling roots, and can contribute to fatal
diseases such as the damping-off fungus.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>If you see algae on</span><!--[if gte vml 1]><v:shape id="_x0000_s1031"
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</v:shape><![endif]--><!--[if !vml]--><img align="right" height="101" hspace="12" src="file://localhost/Users/Aimee/Library/Caches/TemporaryItems/msoclip/0clip_image016.jpg" v:shapes="_x0000_s1033" vspace="12" width="134" /><!--[endif]--><span style="font-family: Arial;"> the soil surface, you’re definitely over-watering.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">When germinating seeds in
containers, bottom heat may be helpful.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>The internet provides information on use of horticultural heating mats
(which greatly resemble old-fashioned water bed heaters), or coils.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I have found the flat top of my
electric hot water heater to be perfect, and have also used a conventional
heating pad used for home treatment of aching muscles, etc.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">Continue to protect seedling
containers with hardware cloth cloches until the young plants begin to grow
up.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Keeping flats on an elevated
surface is most important in spring and summer, to help protect from insects
and pets.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Slugs in particular are
most fond of young seedlings.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">For most plants,
transplanting carefully to another container may be possible once at least two
true leaves (the ones that follow the first leaves, the cotyledons) have
emerged.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Keep seedlings in strong,
direct light, and keep them evenly moist, with some warmth and always with
protection from freezing and from insects. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">Once seedlings have two true
leaves, you can start fertilizing VERY gently.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Dilute your standard mixture for containers by at least 3:1
with additional water.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">Many </span><span style="font-family: "Arial Bold";">annual</span><span style="font-family: Arial;">
native wildflowers like Sea blush germinate in fall and overwinter as
frost-hardy small plants.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In
spring, they take off and gain height before blooming, setting seed and
dying.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>All their energy is put
into seed production, with none left over for permanent roots.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>If you want these wildflowers for the
next year, you must let them mature and dry their seeds.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Most will self-seed in the same place,
and if you want a patch elsewhere, collect seed heads before they shatter and
dry them in a paper bag or scatter the heads in the new location.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>If you save seeds, plant them in fall
to early winter so they can begin the next cycle.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Arial Bold";">Perennials</span><span style="font-family: Arial;"> generally delay germination until spring, after
their vernalization period over winter.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>California poppies act somewhat like bot</span><!--[if gte vml 1]><v:shape
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</v:shape><![endif]--><!--[if !vml]--><img align="right" height="117" hspace="12" src="file://localhost/Users/Aimee/Library/Caches/TemporaryItems/msoclip/0clip_image024.jpg" v:shapes="_x0000_s1037" vspace="12" width="156" /><!--[endif]--><!--[if gte vml 1]><v:shape
id="_x0000_s1038" style='position:absolute;margin-left:417.3pt;margin-top:634.45pt;
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mso-wrap-distance-right:12pt;mso-wrap-distance-bottom:12pt;
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</v:shape><![endif]--><!--[if !vml]--><img align="right" height="124" hspace="12" src="file://localhost/Users/Aimee/Library/Caches/TemporaryItems/msoclip/0clip_image026.jpg" v:shapes="_x0000_s1038" vspace="12" width="165" /><!--[endif]--><!--[if gte vml 1]><v:shape
id="_x0000_s1039" style='position:absolute;margin-left:452.95pt;margin-top:475.7pt;
width:125pt;height:94pt;z-index:251655680;mso-wrap-edited:f;
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mso-wrap-distance-right:12pt;mso-wrap-distance-bottom:12pt;
mso-position-horizontal:absolute;mso-position-horizontal-relative:page;
mso-position-vertical:absolute;mso-position-vertical-relative:page'
coordsize="21600,21600" wrapcoords="-129 0 -129 21254 21600 21254 21600 0 -129 0"
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<v:imagedata src="file://localhost/Users/Aimee/Library/Caches/TemporaryItems/msoclip/0clip_image027.jpg"
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<w:wrap type="through" anchorx="page" anchory="page"/>
</v:shape><![endif]--><!--[if !vml]--><img align="right" height="96" hspace="12" src="file://localhost/Users/Aimee/Library/Caches/TemporaryItems/msoclip/0clip_image028.jpg" v:shapes="_x0000_s1039" vspace="12" width="127" /><!--[endif]--><span style="font-family: Arial;">h annuals and perennials, self-seeding, germinating
in fall, overwintering more or less successfully, and blooming all the next
summer.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>For most perennials seeded
in fall, you can prick out small plants in late spring or summer as they get
several true leaves, and pot them up into 4” pots, moving them to larger pots
as they grow.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Or you can thin them
in the flats, just so each plant has some growing room.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">Perennials invest in root
structures and return year after year, sometimes dying down to the ground in
fall.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Some are short-lived
perennials, like our native Red columbine, returning for a few years, then dying
out.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Keep planting seeds for
replacement plants.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Arial Bold";">Serendipity</span><span style="font-family: Arial;">, happy accidents, can bring you gifts of free
plants, especially after you get started with native plants in your
landscape.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Bird droppings deliver
seeds of fruiting shrubs like currants, madrones and black-cap
raspberries.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>If you keep track of
volunteer plants, you may discover a prize, and can move it in the fall to your
preferred place.</span><span style="font-family: "Arial Bold";"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">Growing natives from cuttings</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Arial;">Cuttings, divisions, bulb
scaling, layering are all examples of vegetative propagation- the resulting
plants will all be genetically identical to the plant from which the pieces
were taken. There are plants that typically produce large “clones” in nature,
by spreading via stolons or suckers (Strawberry, Salal, Red Osier Dogwood,
Nootka Rose, Willows). Though the plants may appear to be separate individuals
and may in time in fact break off from connections with the mother plant, they
are genetically identical and all constitute in effect a single genetic
individual. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">When you purchase plants of
a named cultivar from a nursery, particularly if it possesses an unusual trait
like variegation resulting from a somatic mutation, all such plants are likely
to have been produced vegetatively through cuttings or tissue culture. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">Many plants, including many
natives, are easy to grow from cuttings.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>This can be done without harming the “mother” plants; it can even be
incorporated into pruning or deadheading.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>The plants you get will be genetically identical to the plants from which
the cuttings were taken.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>If you’re
hoping to produce several of one species, it might be advantageous to take
cuttings from different individuals (plants that came from different seeds
originally) or even different populations, so that you will have a little </span><!--[if gte vml 1]><v:shape
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<w:wrap type="through" anchorx="page" anchory="page"/>
</v:shape><![endif]--><!--[if !vml]--><img align="right" height="121" hspace="12" src="file://localhost/Users/Aimee/Library/Caches/TemporaryItems/msoclip/0clip_image034.jpg" v:shapes="_x0000_s1042" vspace="12" width="138" /><!--[endif]--><span style="font-family: Arial;">genetic diversity in your garden.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This is particularly relevant if you
then hope to collect and propagate seeds from the resulting plants.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">Choose plants with fairly
close internodes (vertical distances between true leaves, not leaflets, along the
stem).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Cuttings are easiest from
perennials or shrubs with firm, solid stems, not hollow or latex-filled. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">Cuttings will work best when
taken from the plant while it is actively growing but not flowering. If the
plant is in bloom, remove flowers from cuttings.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">Cuttings in general are best
taken from younger plants, or from the younger portion of a large plant. Avoid
taking cuttings from plants that look unhealthy.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="color: windowtext; font-family: Arial;">Auxins are
one of several classes of naturally-occurring hormones in all plants. To facilitate
rooting, you can dip the ends in rooting hormone (a synthetic form of the auxin
IAA) before planting.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Experts
disagree about how important this is, and it may be more helpful for some
species than for others.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Synthetic
hormones, available as liquid, gel or powder, have a shelf life of 18-24
months, so it is recommended that you buy no more than you can use, and date
the container. Use gloves when handling the chemicals, and take care to store
securely.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="color: windowtext; font-family: Arial;">Another way
of applying auxin to cuttings is the use of willow water, made by simply
cooking willows, which are naturally high in auxin.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="color: windowtext; font-family: Arial;">Wounding
the stem of a cutting can facilitate uptake of water and hormone, and may be
useful for more difficult to root spp.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Cut a section of the outer covering of the stem, or hand-strip lower
leaves. The wound also encourages formation of callus; in some cases, it makes
root emergence easier by removing thick woody tissue.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="color: windowtext; font-family: Arial;">Callus is
an area of new cell division, with undifferentiated cells; roots may form more
easily here. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">A good cutting should have
at least two bare nodes at the lower end (where roots can emerge) and one or
two leafy nodes at the upper end.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Several such cuttings may be possible along one shoot of a plant.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Use a sharp knife to make clean cuts;
scissors cut by mashing, and are not recommended. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">Roots will emerge from nodes
where leaves have been removed, when the nodes are submerged in water or soil.
This works because plants have meristematic tissue (undifferentiated cells,
similar to stem cells in humans) at nodes and tips. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">Cuttings can be grown
outdoors in mild weather, or on a windowsill during cooler times of the
year.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Indirect sunlight is best. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">When</span><span style="font-family: Arial;"> you take cuttings will determine the care and
treatment of the plant material. It gets easier as the growing season moves
toward fall.</span><span style="font-family: "Arial Bold";"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;"> Softwood cuttings are taken in early spring during active growth (many
shrubs), and<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>should bend but not
snap. These should ideally receive bottom heat (70 degrees) and a steadily
moist environment with good air circulation. Their tender tips are subject to
wilting if they dry out.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">The best time for green or "semi-hardwood" cuttings </span><span style="font-family: Arial;">(many shrubs and perennials) is in mid-summer, but
spring should be fine for many. As with softwood, the stem should be bendable
but not snap. Since the tissues are more mature, they do not need babying like
the softwood cuttings taken earlier. You can reduce evaporation rates by
cutting some leaves in half. Plant green cuttings in regular potting soil and
keep moist and fairly warm. Best light levels are </span><!--[if gte vml 1]><v:shape
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mso-position-vertical:absolute;mso-position-vertical-relative:page'
coordsize="21600,21600" wrapcoords="-138 0 -138 21230 21600 21230 21600 0 -138 0"
strokeweight="1pt">
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o:title=""/>
<w:wrap type="through" anchorx="page" anchory="page"/>
</v:shape><![endif]--><!--[if !vml]--><img align="right" height="90" hspace="12" src="file://localhost/Users/Aimee/Library/Caches/TemporaryItems/msoclip/0clip_image044.jpg" v:shapes="_x0000_s1047" vspace="12" width="119" /><!--[endif]--><span style="font-family: Arial;">moderate; direct sunlight is usually too strong.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Most plants should root in a few weeks
(4-6 for most, less for willows).<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Arial Bold";">Hardwood </span><span style="font-family: Arial;">cuttings are taken in fall just after leaf fall, or
right before bud break in the early spring; treat with rooting hormone unless
you know the species to root easily (willows, dogwoods, shrubs that spread with
rhizomes) and plunge into medium (soil or sawdust etc.) in a container or
garden bed where they will not be disturbed until the next spring or fall.
Choose thick, healthy shoots from current season’s growth, 8-12” long, and
submerge most of the shoot in medium (soil, sawdust). The convention for
trimming cuttings is to cut square across the bottom, just below a node, and
use an angled cut at the top just above a bud.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>With extra-slow plants or where winters are harsh, cuttings
can be kept in a frost free garage or a cold frame.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">A few very easy plants,
often with wiry, semi-woody stems, can be rooted in water.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Most will be more successful in moist
soil, vermiculite, or soilless potting mix in small pots or deep
six-packs.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>For long cuttings, use
a deep pot to maximize the rooting zone.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Plant more cuttings than your target number of plants, assuming that you
will have some losses. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">To check for progress, turn
the pot upside down carefully in your hand, the cutting between two fingers,
keeping the rooting medium in the shape of the pot, slide it out and check to
see if white, hairy roots have spread through the medium sufficiently to be
showing on the outside of the soil ball. If this has not occurred, carefully
replace the soil and cutting into the pot and wait another couple of weeks.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">Some plants, like </span><span style="font-family: "Arial Italic";">Castilleja</span><span style="font-family: Arial;"> (Indian Paintbrush) require complex relationships to other plants and
to microbes in the root zone; these are likely to be difficult to grow in
captivity.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">However, there are some
stubborn horticultural myths about difficulty, as well.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span><span style="font-family: "Arial Italic";">Trillium</span><span style="font-family: Arial;"> takes a very long time (8 years, under ideal
conditions) to mature from seed to bloom.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>However, contrary to legend, it is fairly easy to transplant, and easy
to maintain in a pot or garden setting for many years.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There is a horticultural legend that
Madrones are difficult or impossible to grow in cultivation.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It simply isn’t true.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Ease of germination can be deduced from
their habit of profligate self-seeding.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Disappointments with pot culture are likely due entirely to the same
thing that sometimes kills mature madrones in over-tended lands</span><!--[if gte vml 1]><v:shape
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id="_x0000_s1049" style='position:absolute;margin-left:356.6pt;margin-top:577.5pt;
width:81pt;height:95pt;z-index:251665920;mso-wrap-edited:f;
mso-wrap-distance-left:12pt;mso-wrap-distance-top:12pt;
mso-wrap-distance-right:12pt;mso-wrap-distance-bottom:12pt;
mso-position-horizontal:absolute;mso-position-horizontal-relative:page;
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id="_x0000_s1050" style='position:absolute;margin-left:459.3pt;margin-top:586.45pt;
width:107pt;height:80pt;z-index:251666944;mso-wrap-edited:f;
mso-wrap-distance-left:12pt;mso-wrap-distance-top:12pt;
mso-wrap-distance-right:12pt;mso-wrap-distance-bottom:12pt;
mso-position-horizontal:absolute;mso-position-horizontal-relative:page;
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</v:shape><![endif]--><!--[if !vml]--><img align="right" height="82" hspace="12" src="file://localhost/Users/Aimee/Library/Caches/TemporaryItems/msoclip/0clip_image050.jpg" v:shapes="_x0000_s1050" vspace="12" width="109" /><!--[endif]--><span style="font-family: Arial;">capes: water.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Once rooted, established young plants need very, very little of it.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">Detailed protocols for
general propagation can be found in many books and on the internet.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Some resources coming from academia can
be very useful for information about native species, time to germination, etc.
but a caveat is in order.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Many of
these resources give instructions that are very complicated and suggest that a
high level of precision is needed for germination success. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">Experienced growers will
tell you that with simple pretreatments where needed, fall sowing, and
reasonable attention to horticultural basics like watering etc. as outlined
above, many native plants are very easy to grow without need for a greenhouse,
specialized equipment, precise timetables, thermometers, fancy lights, etc. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Arial Bold";"><o:p> ___________________________</o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Arial Bold";">Easy natives to grow
from cuttings:<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Arial Bold Italic";">Penstemon spp.
<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Arial Bold Italic";">Lonicera spp.,
(</span><span style="font-family: "Arial Bold";">Honeysuckle, Twinberry)</span><span style="font-family: "Arial Bold Italic";"> <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Arial Bold Italic";">Ribes
sanguineum</span><span style="font-family: "Arial Bold";">, (Red-flowering
Currant), other </span><span style="font-family: "Arial Bold Italic";">Ribes</span><span style="font-family: "Arial Bold";"> spp<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Arial Bold Italic";">Symphoricarpos
albus, </span><span style="font-family: "Arial Bold";">(Snowberry)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Arial Bold Italic";">Rubus
spectabilis, </span><span style="font-family: "Arial Bold";">(Salmonberry)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Arial Bold Italic";">Thuja plicata,
</span><span style="font-family: "Arial Bold";">(Western Redcedar)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Arial Bold Italic";">Physocarpus
capitatus, </span><span style="font-family: "Arial Bold";">(Ninebark)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Arial Bold Italic";">Oemlaria
cerasiformis</span><span style="font-family: "Arial Bold";">, (Indian Plum)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Arial Bold Italic";">Sambucus
racemosa</span><span style="font-family: "Arial Bold";">, (Red Elderberry)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Arial Bold Italic";">Philadelphus
lewisii</span><span style="font-family: "Arial Bold";">, (Mock Orange)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Arial Bold Italic";">Cornus sericea</span><span style="font-family: "Arial Bold";">, (Redosier Dogwood)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Arial Bold Italic";">Salix spp</span><span style="font-family: "Arial Bold";">., (Willow)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Arial Bold";">Easy natives to grow
from seed<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Arial Bold";">Graminoids: Grasses,
rushes and sedges:<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span><span style="font-family: "Arial Bold Italic";">Festuca</span><span style="font-family: "Arial Bold";">, </span><span style="font-family: "Arial Bold Italic";">Carex</span><span style="font-family: "Arial Bold";">, etc. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Arial Bold Italic";">Iris spp.</span><span style="font-family: "Arial Bold";"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>(not </span><span style="font-family: "Arial Bold Italic";">Iris
tenax</span><span style="font-family: "Arial Bold";">, which takes 2 years or
longer to germinate!)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Arial Bold Italic";">Berberis</span><span style="font-family: "Arial Bold";"> (or: </span><span style="font-family: "Arial Bold Italic";">Mahonia</span><span style="font-family: "Arial Bold";">, syn.) </span><span style="font-family: "Arial Bold Italic";">spp</span><span style="font-family: "Arial Bold";">. (Oregon Grape)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Arial Bold Italic";">Lonicera spp.</span><span style="font-family: "Arial Bold";"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>(Honeysuckle)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Arial Bold";">Asteraceae, including
</span><span style="font-family: "Arial Bold Italic";">Eriophyllum</span><span style="font-family: "Arial Bold";">, </span><span style="font-family: "Arial Bold Italic";">Balsamorhiza</span><span style="font-family: "Arial Bold";">, </span><span style="font-family: "Arial Bold Italic";">Aster</span><span style="font-family: "Arial Bold";">, etc.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Arial Bold Italic";">Collomia
grandiflora<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Arial Bold Italic";">Aquilegia spp.</span><span style="font-family: "Arial Bold";"> (Columbine)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Arial Bold Italic";">Asclepias
speciosa</span><span style="font-family: "Arial Bold";">, other spp. (Milkweed)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Arial Bold Italic";">Sambucus spp.,</span><span style="font-family: "Arial Bold";"> (Elderberry)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Arial Bold Italic";">Lupinus spp</span><span style="font-family: "Arial Bold";">*<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Arial Bold Italic";">Arbutus
menziesii</span><span style="font-family: "Arial Bold";"> (Madrone)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Arial Bold Italic";">Camassia spp<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Arial Bold";">Malvaceae, including </span><span style="font-family: "Arial Bold Italic";">Sidalcea spp.</span><span style="font-family: "Arial Bold";"> (Mallow)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Arial Bold Italic";">Oenothera spp.</span><span style="font-family: "Arial Bold";"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>(Evening Primrose)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Arial Bold Italic";">Clarkia amoena</span><span style="font-family: "Arial Bold";">, other spp. (Godetia)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Arial Bold Italic";">Epilobium
angustifolium</span><span style="font-family: "Arial Bold";"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>(Fireweed)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Arial Bold Italic";">Lewisia spp.</span><span style="font-family: "Arial Bold";"> (Bitterroot)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Arial Bold Italic";">Lomatium spp.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Arial Bold Italic";">Ribes spp. </span><span style="font-family: "Arial Bold";">(Currant)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Arial Bold Italic";">Sorbus spp</span><span style="font-family: "Arial Bold";">., (Mountain Ash)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Arial Bold Italic";">Acer spp</span><span style="font-family: "Arial Bold";">., (Maple)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Arial Bold";">Seed Germination
Basics<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Arial Bold";">1. Pretreatment<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Arial Bold";"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>A. Scarification or soaking<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Arial Bold";"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>B. Vernalization or
stratification<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Arial Bold";">2. Planting<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Arial Bold";"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>A. Not too deep!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Arial Bold";"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>B. Potting soil or
seed-starting mix <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Arial Bold";">3. Protection from
birds and bugs <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Arial Bold";">4. Frequent, gentle
watering<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Arial Bold";">5. Strong, direct
light<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Arial Bold";">Cutting basics<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in; mso-list: l2 level1 lfo3; tab-stops: list .5in; text-indent: -.25in;">
<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: "Arial Bold"; mso-bidi-font-family: "Arial Bold"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Arial Bold";"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">1.<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><!--[endif]--><span style="font-family: "Arial Bold";">Plant
choice: solid, green stems are easiest<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in; mso-list: l2 level1 lfo3; tab-stops: list .5in; text-indent: -.25in;">
<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: "Arial Bold"; mso-bidi-font-family: "Arial Bold"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Arial Bold";"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">2.<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><!--[endif]--><span style="font-family: "Arial Bold";">Best
time: spring to mid-summer<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in; mso-list: l2 level1 lfo3; tab-stops: list .5in; text-indent: -.25in;">
<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: "Arial Bold"; mso-bidi-font-family: "Arial Bold"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Arial Bold";"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">3.<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><!--[endif]--><span style="font-family: "Arial Bold";">Ideally:
2 nodes for rooting, 2-3 small leaves, no flowers<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in; mso-list: l2 level1 lfo3; tab-stops: list .5in; text-indent: -.25in;">
<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: "Arial Bold"; mso-bidi-font-family: "Arial Bold"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Arial Bold";"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">4.<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><!--[endif]--><span style="font-family: "Arial Bold";">Rooting
hormone <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in; mso-list: l2 level1 lfo3; tab-stops: list .5in; text-indent: -.25in;">
<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: "Arial Bold"; mso-bidi-font-family: "Arial Bold"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Arial Bold";"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">5.<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><!--[endif]--><span style="font-family: "Arial Bold";">Well-drained,
consistently moist media<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in; mso-list: l2 level1 lfo3; tab-stops: list .5in; text-indent: -.25in;">
<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: "Arial Bold"; mso-bidi-font-family: "Arial Bold"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Arial Bold";"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">6.<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><!--[endif]--><span style="font-family: "Arial Bold";">Indirect
light, warmth<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
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Samihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18192671719592689432noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1480387558832873400.post-23570700694230306592014-05-08T18:20:00.002-07:002014-09-09T09:10:43.431-07:00native plants for wet and dry places (workshop handout)<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">Drought-tolerant
plants for dry, sunny, rocky or sandy sites<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">Lewisia
spp</span></i><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">. (<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">L. redidiva, L.
cotyledon, L. tweedyi</i>, etc.)- showy, with succulent leaves, some species
evergreen. Require very sharp drainage, prefer somewhat alkaline soil.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">Sedum spp</span></i><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">. (<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">S. spathulifolium, S. oreganum</i>)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">Artemisia
spp</span></i><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">. (<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">A. suksdorfii</i>
etc.)- aromatic plants with grayish foliage, small yellow flowers<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">Abronia
latifolia</span></i><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">- Yellow Sand-Verbena- succulent creeper of sandy beaches<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">Purshia
tridentata</span></i><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">- Antelope Brush- deciduous shrub of high desert, yellow
flowers<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">Eriophyllum
lanatum</span></i><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">- deciduous perennial, attractive grayish foliage, small
bright yellow daisylike flowers- loves gravelly slopes<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">Eriogonum
umbellatum</span></i><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">- rock garden plant, many spp in high desert<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">Balsamorhiza
hookeri, B. sagittata</span></i><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">, etc.- Balsamroot<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">Wyethia
angustifolia</span></i><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">, Mule’s ears- showy, large yellow flowers, fuzzy leaves<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">Grasses- <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Festuca
roemeri, Danthonia californica, Elymus spp<o:p></o:p></i></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">Achillea
millefolium- </span></i><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">yarrow<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">Allium
spp.- e.g. A. acuminatum</span></i></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">Calochortus
spp.- </span></i><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">Mariposa Lily, Cat’s Ears<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">-
</i>stunning lily relative likes very well-drained soils.<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><o:p></o:p></i></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">Brodiaea
spp- </span></i><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">lily relative, graceful dry meadow plants<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><o:p></o:p></i></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">Dichelostemma
spp.- </span></i><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">closely related to and botanically shifting boundaries with<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"> Brodiaea.<o:p></o:p></i></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">Asclepias
spp.- </span></i><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">Butterfly weed<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">- A.
speciosa<o:p></o:p></i></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">Mentzelia
laevicaulus – </span></i><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">Blazing Star (not to be confused with the entirely different
and unrelated<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"> Liatris</i>, also known as
Blazing Star.)- large, showy, high desert perennial in Aster family<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;"><o:p> </o:p></span></b><b><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">Plants for
moist or boggy sites</span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;"><br /></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">Spiraea
douglassi, </span></i><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">Hardhack- very tall, rampant deciduous shrub for moist,
sunny sites; long clusters of small pink flowers in early to mid summer<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><o:p></o:p></i></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">Salix spp-
</span></i><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">willows- many NW native spp<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">Lysichitum
americanum</span></i><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">, Skunk cabbage- deciduous perennial, large yellow spathes
in spring<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">Juncaceae, Cyperaceae- rushes and sedges- many spp<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">Mimulus
guttatus</span></i><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">- yellow monkey flower, deciduous perennial<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">Cornus
sericea (syn. stolonifera)</span></i><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">, Red-osier dogwood- to 12 ft tall, clump spreading
by stolons to at least 12 ft across, deciduous, clusters of small white flowers
followed by white berries, attractive red twigs<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">Rhododendron
groenlandicum (Ledum glandulosum), </span></i><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">Trapper’s tea, Labrador tea- 3-5
ft evergreen shrub, white flowers<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><o:p></o:p></i></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">Lonicera
involucrata</span></i><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">, Twinberry (shrub honeysuckle, deciduous, yellow flowers)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">Myrica
gale</span></i><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">, Sweet gale- deciduous shrub<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">Rorippa
nasturtium-aquaticum</span></i><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">, water cress- deciduous semi-aquatic perennial<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">Ribes
lacustre</span></i><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">, Swamp gooseberry<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">Stachys
cooleyae</span></i><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">, Pink hedge-nettle- rampant mint relative, spreads via
runners and seed, horehound scented leaves, deep pink flowers a hummingbird
hit; likes moist, well-drained, full sun locations<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">Deschampsia
cespitosa</span></i><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">, Tufted hair-grass- tall, moisture-loving grass with
graceful inflorescences<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">Heracleum
lanatum</span></i><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">, Cow parsnip- closely related to the noxious weed Hogweed
and also very similar in appearance to the noxious weed Poison Hemlock <o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;"><i>Sidalcea hendersonii</i>, Henderson's Checker Mallow- to 3 ft +, very showy, long-blooming</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
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Samihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18192671719592689432noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1480387558832873400.post-1067878732055781612014-05-08T18:18:00.002-07:002014-08-27T21:33:41.825-07:00Native plants and deer resistance (workshop handout)<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">There is no relationship
between native or nonnative status and relative appeal to deer.</span><span style="font-family: Arial;"> </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">In general, deer will avoid
plants that are significantly toxic (enough to cause immediate discomfort), are
aromatic or acrid in smell or taste, or that have unpleasant mouth-feel (fuzzy
or tough/leathery leaves).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Plant
preferences are learned, not instinctive- so individual deer, particularly young
ones, may browse almost anything.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Hunger and food availability may also affect browsing choices.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">Deer can be counted upon to
eat anything in the rose family or the Mallows. They like grasses, not
surprisingly, but not sedges and rushes.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">In general, deer will avoid
most plants in the heather family, particularly <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Rhododendron,</i> which is toxic.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>They will rarely eat members of the Barberry family, and avoid most members
of Asteraceae (with several exceptions).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>They will avoid most members of the Buttercup family, as these are
nearly always at least somewhat toxic, though they may nibble flowers.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Oddly, many members of the Legume
family are also toxic and avoided, but sweet peas, vetch and alfalfa are eaten.
Among the Saxifrages, flowers are nibbled, but leaves are rarely munched.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Ferns are rarely eaten, but deer fern
and sword fern may be browsed.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Dogwoods are eaten with gusto, as is <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Ceanothus</i>.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Most conifers and maples are avoided,
but Western Red Cedar and Douglas-Fir may be browsed.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Deer will nibble flowers, fruit or new leaves on plants
whose older leaves are avoided.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">Probably/possibly
maybekindasorta deer resistant natives, by family:<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">Ranunculaceae- <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Anemone, Thalictrum, Caltha, Trollius,
Aquilegia, Actaea, Cimicifuga, Coptis, Delphinium</i><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">Asteraceae- <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Wyethia, Aster spp, Symphyotrichum,
Achillea, Artemisia </i>(usually),<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">
Echinacea, Helenium, Arnica, Bidens, Solidago</i><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">Liliaceae- <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Veratrum</i> (very toxic); <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Allium<o:p></o:p></i></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">Berberidaceae- <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Achlys, Mahonia spp </i>(usually<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">), Vancouveria <o:p></o:p></i></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">Ericaceae- <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Rhododendron, Arctostaphylos,</i> <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Gaultheria, Andromeda, Arbutus, Kalmia,
Ledum, Vaccinium ovatum<o:p></o:p></i></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-family: Arial;">Fabaceae- Lupine, Thermopsis, Astragalus<o:p></o:p></span></i></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-family: Arial;">Apiaceae- </span></i><span style="font-family: Arial;">many
toxic or acrid, probably not eaten<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-family: Arial;">Cyperaceae, Juncaceae, </span></i><span style="font-family: Arial;">(sedges, rushes)<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><o:p></o:p></i></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-family: Arial;">Polypodiaceae </span></i><span style="font-family: Arial;">(ferns- usually) </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial;">Lamiaceae- <i>Stachys</i></span></div>
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Samihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18192671719592689432noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1480387558832873400.post-6356072456972257132014-05-08T18:17:00.000-07:002014-05-08T18:17:45.406-07:00Slope stabilization using native plants (workshop handout)<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; tab-stops: 11.0pt .5in; text-autospace: none;">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;">Functions of plants for
slope stabilization<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;">Plant roots form a fibrous web that stabilizes
and anchors the soil.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;">Roots and residues help maintain soil porosity, increasing infiltration
and thus decreasing runoff<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;">Plant cover intercepts rain, reduces the direct impact of rainwater on
the ground surface and protects from surface runoff and erosion. Dense
groundcovers and grasses reduce runoff velocity and act as a filter trapping
soil that would be washed downslope.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; tab-stops: 11.0pt .5in; text-autospace: none;">
<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;">Vegetation and associated plant litter filter the transport of soil
moisture. Plants can play an important role in dewatering unstable slopes. Soil
moisture is drawn up through roots and into plant leaves where transpiration
releases it into the atmosphere (mostly works for evergreens).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This delays onset of saturation and
runoff.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;">(notes from online articles by Marcia West, Seattle Daily Journal of Commerce, and the WA Dept of Ecology).</span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;">NW Native Plants
recommended for slope stabilization<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;">Various willows- deep and wide roots, most in moist soil: <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Salix lasiandra, S. sitchensis, S.
hookeriana; S. scouleriana </i>(tolerates drier soils than other willows).
Deciduous, large shrubs to small trees.<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><o:p></o:p></i></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;">Northern Black Cottonwood- <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Populus
trichocarpa</i>- deep and wide, extensive rooting in moist soils. Large
deciduous tree.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;">Cascara- <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Rhamnus purshiana</i>-
deciduous small tree to large shrub, deep rooting. (Like its family member
Ceanothus, and like the unrelated Alders and Myricas, it is a non-leguminous
nitrogen-fixer.)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;">Salmonberry- <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Rubus spectabilis</i>-
spreads via underground runners, thicket-forming; deciduous shrub with flowers
appealing to hummingbirds and edible berries sought by wildlife.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;">Snowberry- <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Symphoricarpos albus</i>-
extensive fibrous roots and runners, thicket-forming; drought-tolerant,
deciduous.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;">Salal- <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Gaultheria shallon</i>-
evergreen shrub spreading via runners and extensive fibrous roots to form large
thickets with extensive leaf cover.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Edible berries, drought tolerant.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;">Ocean Spray- <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Holodiscus discolor</i>-
large deciduous shrub with fibrous roots at moderate depth, sprays of white
flowers.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;">Vine maple- <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Acer circinatum</i>-
multi-trunk deciduous shrub with moderately deep fibrous root system; needs
moisture to establish. Great fall color in sun; also tolerates shade.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;">Kinnikinnick – <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Arctostaphylos
uva-ursi</i>-<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>low shrub spreads
sideways, extensive fibrous root system, thick evergreen foliage.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Also, other <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Arctostaphylos spp</i>.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;">Thimbleberry- <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Rubus parviflorus</i>-
spreads via underground runners, fibrous roots, to form thickets. Deciduous,
drought-tolerant, part shade.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Attractive flowers, bland but edible berries liked by wildlife.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Foliage is browsed heavily by deer.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;">Indian Plum- <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Oemleria cerasiformis</i>-
tall deciduous shrub to small tree, part shade, spreads via fibrous roots and
runners to form stands<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;">Evergreen huckleberry- <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Vaccinium
ovatum</i>- extensive fibrous roots, evergreen shrub, does not form thickets.
Attractive landscape element, tasty berries.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;">Nootka rose- <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Rosa nutkana</i>-
spreads via fibrous roots and runners to form thickets. Typical on bluffs over
the Sound, some salt tolerance.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;">Mahonia nervosa </span></i><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;">(full shade)<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">, Mahonia aquifolium </i>(part
shade<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">)</i>- evergreen, fibrous root
system<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;">Fragaria spp</span></i><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-size: 16.0pt;">- Coast strawberry- <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Fragaria
chiloense</i>- spreads rapidly via runners, covers ground, semi-evergreen;
also: <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Fragaria virginiana</i> and <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">F. vesca</i>.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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Samihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18192671719592689432noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1480387558832873400.post-87892384662668658292014-05-08T18:08:00.000-07:002014-05-08T18:08:13.157-07:00NW Natives for shade (workshop handout)<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;"><o:p> </o:p></span><i><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">Mahonia
spp- </span></i><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt;">evergreen</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">Cornus canadensis<o:p></o:p></span></i></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">Asarum
caudatum<o:p></o:p></span></i></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Linnaea borealis<o:p></o:p></span></i></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">Maianthemum
spp</span></i><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">- several spp, including tall deciduous perennials and a
very low-growing groundcover.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>All
have small white flowers followed by berries.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">M. dilatatum- False lily of the Valley<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">M. racemosum, M. stellatum- formerly Smilacina spp, two very
similar plants called False Solomon’s Seal- tall, with white flowers followed
by berries<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">Ferns: <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Adiantum,
Polystichum, Athryrium, Blechnum, etc. </i>Most are deciduous to
semi-evergreen.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Full shade;
Bracken and Sword Fern tolerate edge conditions with filtered sun.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">Vancouveria
hexandra<o:p></o:p></span></i></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">Dicentra
formosa- </span></i><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">Bleeding Hearts<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">- </i>full
to part shade, deciduous, spreads via rhizomes and seed. May go summer dormant
but can persist and rebloom with consistent shade and moisture.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">Aquilegia
formosa- </span></i><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">Columbines- part shade to sun<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><o:p></o:p></i></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">Aruncus
dioicus</span></i><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">- rose family plant often mistaken for Astilbe.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>White flowering, dioecious (male and
female plants separate)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">Saxifrage clan<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">:
Tellima </i>(Fringe Cups<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">), Mitella,
Tiarella </i>(Foam Flower),<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"> Heuchera </i>(Coral
Bells)<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">, Tolmeia </i>(Youth-on-age,
Piggyback plant),<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"> Saxifraga,
Lithophragma, Boykinia<o:p></o:p></i></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">Anemone
spp- </span></i><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">several NW native spp, generally short, white, deciduous<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">Thalictrum
spp- </span></i><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">Meadowrue<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><o:p></o:p></i></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">Erythronium-
</span></i><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">beautiful lily relative, NW spp include <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">E. revolutum</i>, Coast Fawn Lily<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">Trillium
spp</span></i><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">- most widespread in our area is<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"> T. ovatum<o:p></o:p></i></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">Disporum
spp- </span></i><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">deciduous perennial in lily family<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><o:p></o:p></i></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">Corydalis
spp- </span></i><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">Bleeding Heart relative<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><o:p></o:p></i></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">Trientalis
latifolia<o:p></o:p></span></i></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">Oxalis- </span></i><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">resembles
large clover leaves, flowers are five-petaled.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Attractive, assertive in full to part shade.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">Synthyris
reniformis<o:p></o:p></span></i></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">Achlys triphylla-
Vanilla Leaf- </span></i><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">small deciduous groundcover<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">Oplopanax
horridus- Devil’s Club- </span></i><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">mean-looking medium-large shrub. Good for scaring
unruly relatives.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">Native
shrubs for shade to part shade:<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">Rhododendron
macrophyllum </span></i><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">(evergreen)- pink flowers early summer<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><o:p></o:p></i></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">Rosa
gymnocarpa </span></i><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">– Baldhip Rose- deciduous; small native rose, very unusual
in its tolerance or preference for considerable shade<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">Oemleria
cerasiformis</span></i><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;"> – Indian Plum(deciduous)- tall shrub, small white flowers
followed by black-purple berries<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">Vaccinium
ovatum</span></i><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">- Evergreen Huckleberry- berries are dark blue, very
palatable; several other native <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Vaccinium
spp</i>, deciduous and evergreen<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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Samihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18192671719592689432noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1480387558832873400.post-23812842814672195262014-05-08T18:07:00.003-07:002014-05-08T18:07:15.221-07:00NW Native ground covers (workshop handout)<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">Evergreen:</span></b><i><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;"> </span></i></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">Arctostaphylos
uva-ursi, other Arctostaphylos spp- </span></i><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">Manzanita, Kinnikinnick<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">Gaultheria
ovatifolia (</span></i><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">Wintergreen),<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"> G
humifusa</i>- <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>prostrate Salal<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><o:p></o:p></i></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">Cornus
canadensis</span></i><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;"> (or <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">unalaschkensis</i>)-
Bunchberry; Dogwood groundcover- attractive leaves, beautiful flowers appearing
like half-sized dogwood tree flowers, followed by bright red berries.<span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">Linnaea
borealis- </span></i><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">Twin Flower- small, roundish evergreen leaves, tiny
trumpet-shaped pink flowers borne in pairs<span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">Sedum spp-
S. oreganum, S. spathulifolium- </span></i><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">stonecrops- low-growing,
evergreen, succulent foliage, unusual flowers <span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span><o:p></o:p></i></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">Mahonia
repens- Prostrate Oregon Grape<o:p></o:p></span></i></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">Fragaria
spp- F chiloensis, F vesca, F virginiana- wild strawberries<o:p></o:p></span></i></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">Asarum
caudatum- </span></i><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">Wild Ginger- not related to true ginger.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Roots smell gingery.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Attractive leaves, exotic-looking,
often hidden brownish flowers.<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><o:p></o:p></i></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">Deciduous:<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">Trientalis
latifolia- </span></i><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">Star Flower<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">Maianthemum
dilatatum- </span></i><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">False Lily of the Valley<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><o:p></o:p></i></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">Vancouveria
hexandra- </span></i><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">Inside-out Flower<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"> </i>(deciduous
to semi-evergreen)<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><o:p></o:p></i></span></div>
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<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">Rubus
ursinus- </span></i><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">Trailing blackberry- edible berries<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><o:p></o:p></i></span></div>
Samihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18192671719592689432noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1480387558832873400.post-62584215545752604182014-05-08T18:05:00.002-07:002014-05-08T18:05:48.323-07:00Top Evil Nursery Plants (workshop handout)<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt;">English Ivy (</span><i style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt;">Hedera
helix</i><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt;">)- the most environmentally destructive nursery plant in the NW-
“Kudzu of the Northwest”. For wall climbers, various nonnative alternatives
include </span><i style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt;">Fatshedera, Clematis,
Parthenocissus</i><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt;">, climbing</span><i style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt;"> Hydrangea. </i><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt;">Orange-flowering
Honeysuckle</span><i style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt;"> (Lonicera ciliosa) </i><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt;">is a
NW native vine with large, bright orange flowers. Deciduous, climbs to 20 or 30
ft in full to part shade- needs support, doesn’t cling to walls etc. without
staples</span><i style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt;">. </i><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt;">For ground cover, native and
nonnative alternatives. English Ivy is never recommended. Extreme care
recommended in discarding ivy from eradication projects or containers, as
cuttings take a long time to die.</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt;">
</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt;">Contact with the plant can cause dermatitis; wear gloves when
pulling.</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt;"> </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt;">Eradication requires a
long time, watching for re-emergence of rooted segments.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">English Holly (<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Ilex
aquifolium</i>)- widespread noxious weed, bird-planted. Never recommended. Cut
down and destroy the stump. Try other hollies, multitude of evergreen shrubs,
native and nonnative. (Many people confuse English Holly with our woodland
natives <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Mahonia spp</i>., particularly
Holly-leaved Oregon Grape, <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Mahonia
aquifolium</i>. True Holly has alternate leaves; Oregon Grape has opposite
leaflets.)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">Vinca
major, Vinca minor</span></i><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">- invasive, particularly in shade. Very difficult to
eradicate due to runners. Take care in disposing of ripped-out plants or
container leftovers. Never place in open ground or near woodland. Many more
benign alternatives for ground cover, native and nonnative.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">English Laurel (<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Prunus
laurocerasus</i>)- monstrous, spreading via suckers, to 20 ft or more tall, at
least 15 ft wide; neighbors will hate you. Also spreads via bird dissemination
of berries.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Eradication requires
extensive digging, possibly with backhoe. Nonnative alternatives for evergreen
screening include the somewhat more modest-sized and comparatively polite (and
more attractive) Portuguese Laurel, various Rhodies, <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Escallonia, Ceanothus</i>, etc.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Native alternatives include California Wax Myrtle (sun or shade,
evergreen to 15 ft tall and 10 ft wide) and <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Rhododendron
macrophyllum </i>(part shade).<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">Lamium </span></i><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">and<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"> Lamiastrum spp</i>.- usually variegated
groundcover; <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">L. galeobdolon</i> is listed
and quarantined but all plants in this group (in nurseries mostly <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">L. maculatum</i>) are invasive in our region.
Never, ever plant near woodland. Spreads very quickly and is impossible to
eradicate without eliminating all other vegetation as well. Use in containers;
take care in discarding, as uprooted plants remain alive for a long time.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Many native and nonnative alternatives.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">Bishop’s Weed (<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Aegopodium</i>)-
white-variegated groundcover for shade; inexorable until it meets concrete;
very difficult to remove. Close relative <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Peucedanum</i>
is very similar in appearance, said to be much less invasive.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">Garden Loosestrife- <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Lysimachia
spp</i>, erect types. (Ground covers are assertive, but not horrid.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Erect loosestrifes are merciless and
impossible to eradicate.) Plant these only within concrete barriers. (Note:
this is a different plant group than the famous Purple Loosestrife, <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Lythrum spp</i>., which is quarantined in
many states.) Take care in discarding.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">Euphorbia
spp</span></i><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">- many many species and cultivars.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Not all, but most are very invasive, and several spp are
listed noxious weeds in various western states.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Extreme caution recommended. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">Buddleia
davidii</span></i><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">- Butterfly Bush- there are several spp of Buddleia
available horticulturally; this is the only one that is invasive. Listed
noxious weed, not yet quarantined but may become so.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Nurseries are encouraged to discontinue selling it, and
putatively sterile hybrids are becoming more available.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Clumps of escaped B. davidii can be
seen in many places in our region and in general coastally from N. CA to BC.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
Samihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18192671719592689432noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1480387558832873400.post-36663755918466881212014-05-02T07:54:00.001-07:002014-05-16T05:33:32.357-07:00a few tips on price control in landscaping1. Ask yourself what you know about the landscaper's work (see my articles on "the landscaping jungle" and "common errors of landscapers and homeowners" for more on this). It turns out that fees are not in any way a guarantor of skill. Do your homework before hiring a landscaper.<br />
<br />
2. Particularly at the "high end", it is customary for homeowners to write one big check for materials and services without knowing where the money is going. This is a mistake. Ask for a breakdown of charges for all materials and services. <br />
<br />
3. If you have regular employees or subcontractors you like for landscape maintenance, hardscape work, etc.-- you may want to look for a landscaper who's willing to work with your subcontractors, rather than bringing in their own crew.<br />
<br />
<b>Services:</b><br />
Upscale residential landscapers and many commercial companies with crews will charge $40-60/ "man-hour", yet workers are likely to see only $10 per hour of that. Be aware that companies willing to offer bids upfront generally make their bids so high that they are sure to make a good profit. <br />
<br />
For example, a homeowner I know who pays an astronomical fee for landscaping by a company retained by his HOA, recently needed to have some shrubs removed. The HOA's company gave him a bid of $610; as he remarked, "I could go to Hawaii for that!" A subcontractor we knew who charged $30/hr would have done the job in five hours. The homeowner got a buddy to help him and did the work himself in three hours.<br />
<br />
You may find that you pay significantly less for the same work when you deal with an independent subcontractor who simply gives his or her best guesstimate, then charges by the hour. In addition, you have the satisfaction of knowing that the worker receives fair payment for his or her work.<br />
In addition, the people who employ landscaping crews often do not provide good training or supervision, and then do not take responsibility when things are done incorrectly.<br />
The one advantage of hiring a company with a crew is insurance coverage- IF it exists. Determine whether the landscaper is insured, and whether the crew is covered by that insurance. To find out if someone is insured for landscaping or other contracting work, check with the WA Dept of Labor and Industries.<br />
<br />
The reality of landscaping in the state of Washington is that state requirements for licensure and insurance are so expensive that the vast majority of gardeners and landscapers do not comply. As the rules are so odd and so poorly communicated by government agencies, some very upstanding landscapers may work illegally for years, unaware of the insurance and licensing requirements. As a homeowner, your principal concern is to have quality work done with a minimum of damage. Unfortunately, possession of a landscaping license in WA does not in any way indicate experience, training, competence, or oversight. However, it does at least indicate insurance coverage in the event of damage so obvious and immediately identifiable that it is possible for you to pursue redress. <br />
<br />
<b>Materials:</b><br />
<b><br /></b>
Landscapers do not routinely have access to wholesale prices, as most growers require huge volumes; only quite large jobs (hundreds of plants) will be likely to involve wholesale purchases.<br />
<br />
For plants and materials, it is normal for landscapers to receive a discount from their source (typically 15% on plants from retail nurseries), and then sell the materials to you at the same price you would pay if you made the purchase directly.<br />
This is fair, as the alternative would be to charge you for time spent shopping and transporting the materials to your property. Also, your landscaper may add a surcharge to items purchased from a source (like home Depot) that does not extend discounts.<br />
However, beware of blanket charges that are not itemized. You need to know exactly what plants and equipment you have purchased. Make comparisons and make sure that you are not paying significantly more than you would if you bought the items yourself. <br />
Your landscaper should be willing to give you an itemized list of plants with name, pot size, price, and source indicated for each. They should also give you a list of any and all hardscaping materials used, with quantities, sizes, prices, and sources indicated. (In addition, I give homeowners descriptions in writing of all their new plants, with expected size, care requirements, etc.)<br />
Some landscapers may want at least partial payment for plants and other materials upfront. That is fair, but make sure you have appropriate documentation (a receipt) and at least by the end of the project an itemized list.<br />
<br />Samihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18192671719592689432noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1480387558832873400.post-25896987639338061882013-10-21T10:00:00.000-07:002015-08-14T18:46:27.962-07:00gardening with natives- definitions, rationales, selected plant list<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Notes- gardening with natives; definitions,
rationale, and a selected plant list<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">(notes from a recent talk I gave at the Intro to Gardening With Native Plants workshop)</span></b></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;">(abbreviations: sp. = species, singular; spp.= species,
plural)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">A native plant is one growing in the region where the
species evolved. Broadly, North
American natives are considered to be those that were here before the arrival
of European settlers. Some
horticulturists have tended to refer to natives as those that are to native to
North America, anywhere. Botanists
and ecologists are more regional in their application of the term, and some
insist upon a very narrow, virtually neighborhood-specific prerequisite for
something to be considered native.
In truth, while we can accurately refer to plants of the Cascades and
high desert as NW natives, their ecology is likely to be very different from
that which prevails in westside and coastal areas.<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<br /></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Near-natives: can include closely related plants from
similar (Mediterranean) climates, also cultivars of wild species e.g. King
Edward VII <i>Ribes sanguineum</i> <o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<br /></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Native plants have evolved with and are adapted to
the climate and soils of our region, and so may require less care than
non-natives. They have also
evolved with the local pests, and so have developed defenses. Native birds and wildlife depend upon
them. And by growing natives, we
may to some extent be helping to keep threatened flora from extinction- like
keeping cheetahs in zoos. By
maintaining native plants in our gardens and landscaping, we become more
familiar with them. And by
replacing invasive nonnatives with native plants, we can in a small way
remediate the harm to native flora done by Scotch broom and English Ivy land
grabs.<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Obtaining natives- ethics of collecting; make sure
you know methods of the nursery from which you make purchases. Threatened
plants are legally protected, and many rare plants are vulnerable to
over-collecting. Some native lilies (<i>Lilium</i>,
<i>Trillium spp.</i>) are very difficult to
propagate from seed, and take around 7 years from seed to first flower- thus
some nurseries may be tempted to use plants that have been poached. Permits are available for collecting
plants in limited numbers from Forest Service land; salvage programs collect
native plants doomed by development; conservation districts sponsor native
plant sales; some businesses online sell native seed; a few nurseries
specialize in natives, and most general nurseries carry at least a few native
plants. (section in Kruckeberg)<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">ecological approach to gardening<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">In thinking about plant placement, think about where
this plant would occur in nature.
If in woodland, it is probably best in shade, on well-drained, acidic
soils with a lot of organic material.
If in wetland, it probably likes sun to partial shade, not full
shade. <o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Knowing the plant’s taxonomic grouping can help. True grasses are in general, with few
exceptions, adapted to full sun, well-drained locations. Rushes and sedges like moisture. Buttercup family plants are mostly
shade and/or moisture loving, toxic, deer-resistant. Saxifrages (=”rock break”) are nearly all shade lovers,
woodland plants that either grow in well drained soils or rocky
outcroppings. <o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Trees<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">The dominant conifers of our region are <i>Thuja plicata</i> (Western Red Cedar), <i>Pseudotsuga menziesii</i> (Douglas-Fir), <i>Tsuga heterophylla</i> (Western Hemlock) and
<i>Abies grandis</i> (Grand Fir). <o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">Douglas Fir grows rapidly to
as tall as 200 ft, often found in dryish or poor soils<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">Grand Fir may reach over 200
ft; generally grows in dry areas, often found with Douglas Fir<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">Conifers in general do best
in well-drained soils, in full sun.
Hemlock and Western Redcedar are more tolerant of shade and wet
environments. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">Western Red Cedar- dominant
tree of coastal areas, can grow up to 200 ft tall with up to 10 ft diameter
trunks in mature trees. There are many cultivars of <i>Thuja plicata</i> as well as other <i>Thuja
</i>species widely available in the nursery trade, e.g. arbor vitae<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;">Western Hemlock is fairly
common in our region, often in woods dominated by Western Redcedar. It can grow to 180 ft tall, with a more
slender trunk than Redcedar.
Needles are short and of variable length, contributing to the lacy look
of the foliage. (The second part of its botanical name- <i>Tsuga heterophylla</i>- means “different leaves”.)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;">Mountain Hemlock (<i>Tsuga mertensiana</i>) occurs at higher
elevations, and at around 120 ft tall with a comparatively narrow profile, it is
a somewhat smaller tree than Western Hemlock; Mountain Hemlock is more often
available in nurseries. The tree grows fairly slowly and is unlikely to reach
maximum heights in home landscapes.
Twenty year height is around 25 ft.; width to six feet.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><i><span style="font-family: Arial;">Taxus brevifolia</span></i></b><span style="font-family: Arial;"> (Western Yew)- shade tolerant smaller tree, max 50
ft tall, source of Taxol. Grows in
moist mixed forests at low to mid elevations. Coniferous, but the single seed is covered by a bright red
skin. The seed (with the exception
of the red skin) is very toxic though eaten by birds. Yew is dioecious:
separate trees are male or female, rarely both <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><i><span style="font-family: Arial;">Pinus contorta</span></i></b><span style="font-family: Arial;">= montane form
Lodgepole Pine and lowland form, Shore Pine. It is a somewhat smaller (to 50 ft) tree whose size and silhouette can vary greatly depending
upon growing conditions. Like the
other conifers, it requires full sun and good drainage. Common on coasts, sporadic in
Willamette and Puget Sound areas, except San Juans<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Evergreen broadleaf trees- the major one of our
region is madrone <i>Arbutus menziesii</i>
(heather family). It is most
abundant in drier areas (like Sequim and the peninsulas and islands of the rain
shadow), and higher, exposed locations. Also seen on bluffs over the Sound. <o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">This is a large tree, beautiful in flower and
fruit. Fruit important to native
birds. Tree needs full sun and
excellent drainage. Tends to
deteriorate when other trees grow up around it, shading it. Has a reputation for being difficult to
grow, but this is mostly due to its intolerance to overwatering and
fertilizing.<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Common name Strawberry Tree is confusing, as this is
also applied to its relative <i>Arbutus unedo</i>,
a smaller, more shrubby plant, which is sometimes labeled as a native but is
not—it’s a European species. <i>A. unedo</i> also is host to some 28 fungal
pathogens in our region. <i>Arbutus marina</i>, another nonnative sometimes
erroneously labeled as native, is a hybrid of <i>Arbutus unedo</i> and an unknown, probably Asian, more tender species.<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">Deciduous broadleaf trees<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">Vine maple- <i>Acer circinatum</i>- may grow as a small
multi-trunked tree or shrub; 3-30 ft, usually 10-15; more treelike habit in
full sun, more shrubby in shade; leaves and tree structure may resemble
Japanese maples<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">Needs regular water to get
established; full sun to part shade; best fall color in sun<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">Vine maples from nurseries
can be prone to a number of problems, including disease and transplant shock<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">Paperbark birch- <i>Betula papyrifera</i>- grows to 40 ft in 20
years- ultimately 80 ft; often multi-trunked; peeling white to brown bark-
birches in general often suffer damage from Sapsuckers (colorful birds that
drill holes in bark especially during the high-sap season, April to July)—a
broad band of regularly positioned lines of holes will often be seen on the
trunk several feet off the ground <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Dogwood- several native species, including a tree (<i>Cornus nuttallii</i> – to 60 ft), shrubs (<i>Cornus sericea- syn C. stolonifera</i>- Red
Osier Dogwood) and ground cover (<i>Cornus
canadensis- syn unalaschkensis</i>- Bunchberry). Dogwood trees including our native and the eastern native <i>C. florida</i> are vulnerable to the fungal
disease anthracnose; Korean Dogwood is less susceptible, and so a reasonable
choice for the NW landscape if anthracnose is a concern may be one of the
cultivars that are hybrids between <i>C. nuttallii</i>
and <i>C. kousa<o:p></o:p></i></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">Shrubs<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><i><span style="font-family: Arial;">Cornus sericea</span></i></b><b><span style="font-family: Arial;">- red osier
dogwood- shrub grows in stoloniferous clumps often to 12 ft in diameter, 15 ft
tall- clusters of small white flowers followed by white berries. Numerous
cultivars, including dwarfs and variegated forms, forms with varying stem color
(gold). Some disease problems
particularly in the cultivars. Inflorescence appears much different than in the
trees and ground cover <i>Cornus</i>; in
those, the four “petals” that make the flowers showy are actually white (or
pink, in cultivars) bracts; in Red Osier, the inflorescence consists of many
small, bractless flowers<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><i><span style="font-family: Arial;">Rhododendron macrophyllum</span></i></b><b><span style="font-family: Arial;">- most
widespread native Rhody in our region- large, evergreen; pink flowers. Typically grows on edges of coniferous
woods, and part shade is its best spot.
Prefers somewhat acidic, moist, well-drained soil. Surprisingly hard to find in
nurseries. May be susceptible to
rhododendron weevil, which is quite a problem in our area—do not plant in or
near a spot where weevil damage (notched leaves, brittle brown flower buds) has
been observed on Rhododendron or other shrubs. Two other PNW native Rhodies-
both deciduous. One white-flowered
<i>Rhododendron albiflorum</i>, northern and
upland sp., considered very difficult to grow and not available in
nurseries. <i>R. occidentale</i> – Western Azalea- is a tall, deciduous shrub with
fragrant, showy peach colored flowers, grows Oregon coast range southward. Easy, sold in nurseries.<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">Ninebark- <i>Physocarpus capitatus</i>- Rose family- deciduous multi-trunk shrub to 8 ft
tall, 6 ft wide, attractive clusters of small white flowers May/June. Several cultivars of closely related
species on nursery market. Reliably
browsed by deer.<br />
Likes somewhat moist soil in full sun to part shade<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">Huckleberry- in our region,
one widespread evergreen species (<i>V. ovatum</i>)
bearing blue-black fruit and one somewhat less ubiquitous deciduous version (<i>V. parvifolium</i>), with many small, shiny
red fruits valued for culinary use.
Several other native <i>Vaccinium</i>
species. Genus <i>Vaccinium</i> also includes the blueberries,
edible and ornamental cultivars.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">Honeysuckles<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><i><span style="font-family: Arial;">Lonicera involucrata</span></i></b><b><span style="font-family: Arial;">,
Twinberry- erect shrub<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><i><span style="font-family: Arial;">Lonicera hispidula</span></i></b><b><span style="font-family: Arial;"> and <i>L. ciliosa</i>- <o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><i><span style="font-family: Arial;">L hispidula</span></i></b><b><span style="font-family: Arial;"> bears
smaller, yellow to pink or pinkish purple flowers, orange-red berries, can have
a semi-erect, shrubby or vining habit, grows in part shade to sun. <o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><i><span style="font-family: Arial;">L. ciliosa</span></i></b><b><span style="font-family: Arial;"> is more
shade loving, vines can run 20 ft up into trees, large bright orange flowers
May to July, orange berries.
Perennial, deciduous in our region. Susceptible to blight, mildew. <o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Berries of these <i>Lonicera</i> species
considered upalatable, inedible, possibly toxic. Another, <i>L. caerulea</i>,
has been bred as a potential agricultural crop.<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<b><i><span style="font-family: Arial;">Ribes sanguineum</span></i></b><b><span style="font-family: Arial;">- Red
Flowering Currant. Brightest thing
in spring, blooming Feb through April.
Usually deep pink, but ranges from light pink (occasionally white) to
light red. Loved by
hummingbirds. Flowers followed by
blackish berries with chalky white dusting, midsummer. Berries are nontoxic but
said to be quite unpalatable to humans, though eaten by birds. Popular cultivars include King Edward
VII (deep pink flowers) and Icicle (white flowers). Requires excellent drainage.<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<b><i><span style="font-family: Arial;">Philadelphus lewisii</span></i></b><b><span style="font-family: Arial;">- Mock
Orange- tall, showy, drought-tolerant deciduous shrub for full sun. Fragrant white flowers spring through
late summer.<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<i><span style="font-family: Arial;">Spiraea</span></i><span style="font-family: Arial;">
spp (Rose Family)- two PNW species; <i>S. douglassii</i>
is common in our area. 3 to 8 ft
tall, long pointy inflorescences of small pink flowers blooming mid to late
summer, grows on edges of irrigation channels, drainage ditches, wetlands. Full sun to part shade. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<i><span style="font-family: Arial;">S. densiflora</span></i><span style="font-family: Arial;">- more alpine in distribution, but a valuable horticultural plant which
blooms May/June to midsummer; much more compact than S douglassii and more
drought-tolerant; usually 3 ft tall and wide though it can be larger; showy
“powder puff” inflorescences<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<i><span style="font-family: Arial;">Rosa</span></i><span style="font-family: Arial;"> spp.-
<i>R. nutkana, pisocarpa, gymnocarpa</i>. <i>R.
nutkana</i> is larger, found usually in full sun. Can be rangy and rampant; good for holding slopes, and often
seen on bluffs. <i>R. gymnocarpus</i> has
smallest leaves and flowers, “baldhip”=
calyx absent by the time the plant is in fruit. Rare shade loving rose. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<i><span style="font-family: Arial;">Myrica californica- </span></i><span style="font-family: Arial;">Pacific Wax Myrtle- moist to somewhat dry soil, sun
to shade, to 8 ft and can form dense thicket. Small yellowish flowers in catkins, separate male and female
catkins on the same plant, crescent-shaped waxy evergreen leaves. Similar and
closely related but smaller and deciduous is <i>Myrica gale</i>. Nitrogen-fixing root nodules. (Other nitrogen fixers
in our flora include Alders, <i>Ceanothus</i>,
and most legumes including Lupines.)<i><o:p></o:p></i></span></div>
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<b><i><span style="font-family: Arial;">Mahonia nervosa</span></i></b><b><span style="font-family: Arial;">, <i>Mahonia aquifolium</i>- two widespread spp
of Oregon Grape (Barberry Family).
<i>M. nervosa</i> (Low Oregon Grape)
has more numerous leaflets, prefers more full shade. <i>M. aquifolium</i>
(Holly Leaf Oregon Grape, Tall Oregon Grape) has more toothy, shiny leaves
(causing confusion with holly); likes sunny woodland edges. Easy distinction from holly: holly leaves are alternate; <i>Mahonia</i> leaflets are opposite. Mahonias bloom (yellow) April/May, then
set attractive dark blue fruit.
Roots used medicinally and berries are edible. <o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Perennials for Shade<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<i><span style="font-family: Arial;">Anemone spp. – </span></i><span style="font-family: Arial;">numerous NW species, some of open meadows and rocky montane habitat;<i> A. deltoidea</i> and <i>A. oregana</i> are woodland spp. of our region. <i>A. deltoidea</i> has showy white flowers to 3” wide, on stems to 15”.
The low-growing plant is deciduous, spreading on slender rhizomes.<i><o:p></o:p></i></span></div>
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<b><i><span style="font-family: Arial;">Dicentra formosa</span></i></b><b><span style="font-family: Arial;">- Bleeding Heart- attractive deciduous
perennial for shade; spreads by seeds and rhizomes. Heart-shaped pink flowers
in early summer. May go summer-dormant due to heat and drought, but can be kept
going (leaves alive, some late flowers) through summer with adequate shade and
regular water. Spreads via rhizomes and seed.<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<i><span style="font-family: Arial;">Erythronium spp.</span></i><span style="font-family: Arial;">- 4 NW species; two montane and two lowland. The latter are <i>E. revolutum</i>
(Pink Fawn Lily or Coast Fawn Lily) and <i>E.
oreganum</i> (Giant Fawn Lily).
Another common name for the genus, annoying and mystifyingly irrelevant,
is Dog Tooth Violet. The plants are not remotely related to violets, and in no
way resemble them.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<i><span style="font-family: Arial;">E. revolutum</span></i><span style="font-family: Arial;">
occurs in sometimes large populations in woodland areas and near water along
the coast from BC to Oregon. Flowers
in spring, medium pink to white. Despite their delicate appearance, <i>Erythroniums</i> are fairly easy to grow in
very well-drained soil in moist shade.
Slugs and deer will eat them.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b><i><span style="font-family: Arial;">Heuchera</span></i></b><b><span style="font-family: Arial;"> and
friends (Saxifrage Family)<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<b><i><span style="font-family: Arial;">Tolmeia, Tellima, Mitella, Tiarella<o:p></o:p></span></i></b></div>
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<b><i><span style="font-family: Arial;">Saxifrage = </span></i></b><b><span style="font-family: Arial;">“rock
break”—these plants in general require excellent drainage, and are often found
growing in damp, rocky spots near streams in open woods. All plants in the
group like at least part shade; Heuchera is particularly resentful of clay.<i><o:p></o:p></i></span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Available at garden centers- many cultivars of <i>Heuchera</i> spp., also <i>Heucherella</i> (<i>Heuchera/Tiarella</i>
cross). These are all woodland
species, deep to partial shade; <i>Tellima</i>
is more sun-tolerant. All have
small white to pink flowers. <i>Tellima</i> and some Heucheras are
evergreen. Deer will reliably
munch the flowers of this group, usually leave the leaves alone. In most of these, the primary leaves
are basal. If leaves grow on the
flower stems, often these will deteriorate soon after the flowers die.<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<b><i><span style="font-family: Arial;">Tellima grandiflora</span></i></b><b><span style="font-family: Arial;">, Fringe
Cups, tolerates a range of soils but is significantly more handsome in good
garden soil with light shade.
Handsome evergreen leaves form a spreading clump, with long-lasting
tall, slender, arching flower stems in summer. Abundantly self-seeding.<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<b><i><span style="font-family: Arial;">Tolmeia menziesii</span></i></b><b><span style="font-family: Arial;">- Piggyback
plant, Youth-on-age; semi-evergreen; brown flowers; new leaves may arise at the
juncture of mature leaf and petiole (stem of leaf)<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<i><span style="font-family: Arial;">Viola spp.- </span></i><span style="font-family: Arial;">at
least 20 NW species, with yellow or white to purplish flowers. Low-growing, shade and moisture loving
ground cover, usually deciduous except for <i>V.
sempervirens</i> (with yellow flowers).
Violas spread via rhizomes and/or stolons, self-seeding.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b><i><span style="font-family: Arial;">Maianthemum spp.</span></i></b><b><span style="font-family: Arial;">- all bear
white flowers followed by berries. Lily family. <i>M. racemosum</i> and <i>M. stellata</i>,
formerly <i>Smilacina</i>—False Solomon’s
Seal—tall woodland lilies with small white flowers in racemes. Flowers in April
to June are followed by berries, red in <i>M.
racemosum</i> and green turning to blue/black in M. stellatum. Rhizomatous
plants with unbranched stems. Slugs and deer will munch heavily. Related,
somewhat similar looking plants in similar habitat include <i>Disporum spp</i>. and <i>Streptopus
spp</i>.<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">See <i>Maianthemum
dilatatum</i> under ground covers.<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<i><span style="font-family: Arial;">Petasites spp</span></i><span style="font-family: Arial;">- daisy family, deer-resistant, large plant (to 30”), part shade,
tolerates range of soils. Inflorescence
a somewhat umbel-shaped head of small white to pink fringed-looking flowers on
stalks. Palmate Coltsfoot, Petasites palmatus, most common in our region- large
heart shaped, deeply divided, matte-surface leaves. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b><i><span style="font-family: Arial;">Aruncus dioicus</span></i></b><b><span style="font-family: Arial;">- Goatsbeard-
rose family, resembles <i>Astilbe</i>, part
shade, moist with drainage, large, deciduous, divided foliage, spiky/feathery
inflorescences of small white flowers mid summer. Woodland edges, often gentle
slopes. Dioecious (separate male and female plants)- flowers a bit different,
appearing a bit fluffier on male plants; female plants bear attractive seed
pods.<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<i><span style="font-family: Arial;">Trillium ovatum</span></i><span style="font-family: Arial;">- showy woodland relative, growing from a bulb. Most widespread <i>Trillium</i> in our region- white flowers
early spring to midsummer, needs very well drained soil with a lot of organic
matter, moist shade. Slugs,
gophers and deer will steal them.
Our native <i>Trilliums</i> are hard
to find in nurseries, and care must be taken to buy from reliable sources who
are not poaching. There are a
couple of additional, larger, less widely distributed NW species, including <i>T. albidum</i>.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Perennials for Sun<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<b><i><span style="font-family: Arial;">Allium cernuum </span></i></b><b><span style="font-family: Arial;">– Nodding
Onion- showy native onion—small edible bulbs and chivelike leaves, delicate
bright pink to white flowers midsummer in umbels to 15” tall. One of several smallish, white to pink,
pretty native onions. Easy to grow, multiplies via bulb offsets and
self-seeding. Like other bulbs it prefers well-drained soils but will tolerate
even heavy clay, seasonally boggy to droughty soils.<i><o:p></o:p></i></span></b></div>
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<i><span style="font-family: Arial;">Aquilegia</span></i><span style="font-family: Arial;">-
Columbine- <i>A. formosa</i> is our most
widespread Columbine. Graceful,
orange to reddish flowers attract butterflies and hummingbirds. Likes moist, well-drained, sunny conditions
or dappled shade. Self-seeds
generously, deciduous, taprooted.
Columbines generally tend to hybridize easily when grown near other
Columbine species. Columbines often do poorly in containers. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Camas- full sun to part shade, moist soil, tolerates
heavy clay soils, seasonally boggy conditions. Lily family member that is comparatively easy to grow from
seed (good germination) though it takes about 4 years for the first florets to
appear, and a couple more years for a full inflorescence. Contractile roots cause bulbs to move
downward in soil. 3 PNW species, <i>Camassia quamash</i>, <i>C. cusickii</i> and <i>C.
leichtlinii</i>; <i>C. quamash</i> most
common. Showy racemes of purple
flowers in early summer. 10-20”
tall, strap shaped somewhat fleshy leaves. <o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<b><i><span style="font-family: Arial;">Campanula rotundifolia- </span></i></b><b><span style="font-family: Arial;">deciduous
plant to three ft tall (usually shorter);<i>
</i>basal leaves heart-shaped, leaves on flower stems linear/grasslike;
graceful slender stems support numerous showy bell-shaped flowers in delicate
shades of lavender, occasionally white- June through September. Spreads at a modest pace via slender
rhizomes and self-seeding. Likes well-drained ground, sea level to subalpine,
moderately drought-tolerant.<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<b><i><span style="font-family: Arial;">Eriophyllum lanatum – </span></i></b><b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Wooly
Sunflower- low-growing, gray-green foliage, inch-wide, very bright yellow daisylike
flowers May through September- full sun, excellent drainage, drought-tolerant.
Another, very confusing common name is Golden Yarrow (the plant in no way
resembles Yarrow). Height is quite
variable, from more erect lowland forms that may reach 30” tall, to nearly prostrate
montane varieties. The plant typically grows in open, dry, often rocky habitat,
gravelly roadsides etc.<i><o:p></o:p></i></span></b></div>
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<i><span style="font-family: Arial;">Iris tenax</span></i><span style="font-family: Arial;">-
full sun to part shade, stiff evergreen leaves, usually purple flowers May/June
with yellow and white markings; occasionally white, yellow or pink. Meadows,
sunny woodland edges, well-drained moist to dryish, acidic soil.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<i><span style="font-family: Arial;">Lilium columbianum</span></i><span style="font-family: Arial;">- Columbia Lily, “tiger lily”- blooms early summer- orange to gold, strongly
reflexed petals with speckles- wide range, scattered, sometimes large
populations in sunny meadows and dappled forest edges up to 6000 ft, BC to CA,
bulb, needs good drainage, moisture, organic material. Guaranteed to be eaten by deer, rabbits,
slugs, gophers, rats...<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<i><span style="font-family: Arial;">Lewisia</span></i><span style="font-family: Arial;">
spp- Bitterroot- Purslane family-- montane and eastside but can be grown here
with special attention to drainage.
Some collectors keep <i>Lewisia</i>
in pots and turn sideways in winter, or hold under eaves. Does best in medium with very sharp
drainage, somewhat alkaline- pumice, perlite, rocks. Most tolerant of our weather and soils is <i>L. cotyledon</i>, which is widely available
in garden centers. Another
relatively easy sp. for the garden is <i>L. columbiana</i>-
basal succulent leaves, small flowers on long stems. Other species are beautiful but fussy, some deciduous.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Lupines- large group spp throughout west, perhaps 80
native to the NW. Full sun, loved
by butterflies. Possibly short
lived but spread by plentiful, long-lived seed. Hard to keep in containers (possibly due to need for rhizobial
associations), may be best grown from seed. Specific inoculants are available (see
Roose Green Solutions, which sells inoculant and has an excellent page on
nitrogen fixation). Bigleaf Lupine, <i>Lupinus
polyphyllus</i>, is a large species widespread in our area—to 4 ft tall, blooms
early summer, tall spikes of purple flowers. Needs good
drainage; grows on moist to dryish soil; open, sunny meadows are its natural
location but it can be found on roadsides and woodland edges, persisting over
the years via large woody rhizomes and self-seeding. Deciduous, tends to
deteriorate after blooming. Seed
is highly toxic, looks like lentils; easily collected for propagation, and long-lasting.<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<i><span style="font-family: Arial;">Mimulus</span></i><span style="font-family: Arial;">- (Monkey
Flower)- in the figwort family with the characteristic “lipped” corolla (like
snapdragons) adapted for insect pollination. Many species throughout the west, several in PNW. Most widespread in our region is <i>M. guttatus</i>, a plant of wetlands and streamsides
which is tall, yellow flowered, moisture loving, full sun to part shade, blooms
late spring through summer. Most
species are yellow, orange, pink.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<i><span style="font-family: Arial;">Oenothera spp.- </span></i><span style="font-family: Arial;">Evening Primrose- numerous NW species; <i>O. hookeri</i> and <i>O. biennis</i>
are perennial to biennial, tall, deciduous. Flowers are large, bright yellow and showy, mid to late
summer. Leaves are
undistinguished, and it is rare to find the plants in nurseries. Seed is easy to collect and propagate.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b><i><span style="font-family: Arial;">Penstemon</span></i></b><b><span style="font-family: Arial;">- over 100
native species, some meadow and some rock garden plants, herbaceous or subshrubs,
deciduous or evergreen, some prostrate, others erect to 36”. Mostly dryish
habitats, sunny/rocky; the comparatively tall sp <i>Penstemon serrulatus</i> grows in wetter sites, coastal to
subalpine. All penstemons have tubular
flowers, most often purple (some pinkish, at least one yellow), attractive to
hummingbirds. Rock Penstemon, <i>P. rupicola</i>,
is very low-growing, blooms May-August, deep pink flowers, evergreen foliage.<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<i><span style="font-family: Arial;">Potentilla gracilis – </span></i><span style="font-family: Arial;">Graceful Cinquefoil<i>- </i>rose family; small shrub with deciduous, much-divided foliage,
small yellow flowers late spring through early summer. One of numerous native <i>Potentilla</i> species, which range from
very low, prostrate ground covers, mostly herbaceous, moist to dryish ecology,
coastal to middle elevations. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b><i><span style="font-family: Arial;">Sidalcea spp</span></i></b><b><span style="font-family: Arial;">- mallows-
several PNW spp, medium to very tall plants of woodland edges and meadows. Full sun, great for butterflies. Delicate flowers pink to white. Several
checker-mallows, including <i>S. virgata</i>,
<i>S. nelsoniana</i> and <i>S. hendersonii</i>—are gynodioecious
(different plants may have only hermaphrodite flowers, or only female
flowers). The hermaphrodite
flowers are noticeably larger and somewhat paler than the female flowers. Hermaphrodite
plants will produce seed; female plants will produce seed only if a hermaphrodite
is nearby. <i>Sidalcea</i> spp grown together will often hybridize. Sidalceas are very showy and
long-blooming; <i>S. hendersonii</i> blooms
June through September (at least). Deciduous.<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<b><i><span style="font-family: Arial;">Sisyrinchium spp.</span></i></b><b><span style="font-family: Arial;">- Iris
family- several PNW species.
Botanically changeable, with several taxonomic shifts within and among
species. Most widespread in our
region are <i>S. bellum</i> (or <i>S. idahoense</i>), <i>S. douglasii</i> (or <i>Olsynium
douglasii</i>), and <i>S. californicum</i>.
All species have long, narrow, grasslike leaves, small flowers early through
late spring. <i>S. bellum</i> has blue-violet flowers, <i>S. douglasii</i> has somewhat larger rose-purple flowers, and <i>S. californicum</i> has golden yellow flowers.
Full sun to part shade in moist meadows. The plants spread via short, wiry
rhizomes and self-seeding. <o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<i><span style="font-family: Arial;">Stachys cooleyae</span></i><span style="font-family: Arial;">- rampant plant for full to part sun, moist well-drained situations-
ditches, wetland edges- pretty common in our area. Horehound scent, deep pink to purplish flowers loved by
hummingbirds. Spreads by seed and
rhizomes. May be prone to powdery mildew if leaves stay too wet due to weather,
overhead watering, shade or crowding.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;">Annuals- <i><o:p></o:p></i></span></div>
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<b><i><span style="font-family: Arial;">Clarkia</span></i></b><b><span style="font-family: Arial;"> (Evening
Primrose Family)—generally available only as seed; <i>Clarkia</i> (Godetia) can be found occasionally in “wildflower” mixes
or alone. There are several spp; <i>C. amoena</i> is particularly lovely, 6”-3
ft (most commonly around 2 ft)- varying shades of pink to white, with petal
spots. <i>Clarkia</i> may be happiest in spring and fall, not in the hottest
summer weather.<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<i><span style="font-family: Arial;">Collomia grandiflora </span></i><span style="font-family: Arial;">(Phlox family)<i>-</i>
<i>Collomia</i> blooms early to midsummer,
white through yellow, usually orange. There are several other annual species
and one perennial species of <i>Collomia</i><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;">Both <i>Clarkia</i> and <i>Collomia</i> are
very showy plants of meadows, roadsides and sunny woodland edges. Both self-seed extravagantly. Will tolerate clay but love good
drainage.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<i><span style="font-family: Arial;">Plectritis congesta</span></i><span style="font-family: Arial;"> (Sea Blush, Valerian family)- one of three NW species, all annuals.
Showy clusters of small pink flowers atop plants 6-30” tall- grows in full sun
in seasonally moist meadows at low elevation, often close to the coast <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;">Ferns<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b><i><span style="font-family: Arial;">Athyrium filix-femina</span></i></b><b><span style="font-family: Arial;">- Lady
Fern- tall, deciduous<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<b><i><span style="font-family: Arial;">Blechnum spicant</span></i></b><b><span style="font-family: Arial;">- small
fern, semi-evergreen <o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><i><span style="font-family: Arial;">Adiantum pedatum, (syn Adiantum
aleuticum)</span></i></b><b><span style="font-family: Arial;">- Maidenhair fern- delicate deciduous fern for moist
well-drained shade, rocky streamsides<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">All ferns prefer shade,
though their tolerance for a bit of sun varies. The ubiquitous, rambunctious, large evergreen Sword Fern
tolerates sun well. Deer fern will
not appreciate direct sun, but will not immediately fry. The softer fronds of Maidenhair despise
direct sun and hot weather.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">Deer will not eat most
ferns, and slugs seem to have little impact.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">Ground covers<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Cornus canadensis (syn C. unalaschkensis)-
Bunchberry- prostrate Dogwood with attractive semi-evergreen leaves, showy
white flowers in mid-summer, followed by red berries. Rhizomatous, prefers
shade, moist, well-drained acidic soil.<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><i><span style="font-family: Arial;">Linnaea borealis</span></i></b><b><span style="font-family: Arial;">-
Twinflower (Honeysuckle Family) named by Linnaeus after himself, honeysuckle
family, small, graceful, evergreen, trailing plant with attractive leaves and
tiny pink funnel shaped flowers borne in pairs in early summer. Rapid but not
invasive, can cover ground to form a mat over many square feet. May take years
from seed to bloom; may be best to propagate by cuttings or divisions,
easy. The plant is
self-incompatible, so a clone that blooms amply will not produce seed (dry capsule)<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><i><span style="font-family: Arial;">Vancouveria hexandra</span></i></b><b><span style="font-family: Arial;">- inside
out flower- (Barberry Family) to 1 ft tall, semi-evergreen to deciduous with
small white flowers in midsummer.
Can fill fairly large spaces, spreading via rhizomes and self-seeding. Closely
related to <i>Epimedium</i>, barberry
family. <o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i><span style="font-family: Arial;">Oxalis</span></i><span style="font-family: Arial;">-
two spp in our region, one with yellow and one with pink flowers. The latter, <i>O. oregana</i>, is often available in nurseries and can provide rapidly
spreading ground cover in moist shade.
“clover”-like leaves, five-petaled flowers.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i><span style="font-family: Arial;">Asarum caudatum</span></i><span style="font-family: Arial;">- Wild Ginger- moist shade, rhizomatous, evergreen, low-growing, forms
mats- brownish to green-yellow flowers often borne under the heart shaped,
sometimes mottled leaves. Ginger
scent to leaves when crushed.
Roots are edible, but many plants in the family are toxic, so caution is
advised with other plant parts.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><i><span style="font-family: Arial;">Maianthemum dilatatum</span></i></b><b><span style="font-family: Arial;">- False
lily of the valley- (Lily Family)- heartshaped leaves with conspicuous parallel
venation. Moist shade. Deciduous, disappears completely in winter;
aggressive, spreads reliably via rhizomes and stolons. Small star-shaped
flowers in erect cylindric clusters rise a few inches above the low, broadly
heart-shaped, abundantly ground-covering leaves.<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i><span style="font-family: Arial;">Arctostaphylos uva-ursi</span></i><span style="font-family: Arial;">- Kinnickinnik- (Heather Family)- full sun to shade,
evergreen, well-drained, drought-tolerant; slow to establish, but eventually
makes a thick, low, shrubby ground cover to about a foot high; good for holding
slopes<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><i><span style="font-family: Arial;">Trientalis latifolia</span></i></b><b><span style="font-family: Arial;">- Star
flower- (Primrose Family) -deciduous, to 4” tall, beautiful pinkish, 6-7
pointed flowers in spring/early summer.
spreads via stolons, tubers and seeds. Usually not a dense ground cover, though in good garden soil
may provide more coverage.
Downside= deterioration of leaves after flowering but with a bit of
water would persist longer. Very similar smaller plant with pure white flowers is
<i>T. arctica</i><o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">Graminoids<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i><span style="font-family: Arial;">Deschampsia cespitosa</span></i><span style="font-family: Arial;"> – Tufted Hairgrass- tall, graceful semi-evergreen
grass; moderate water needs, full sun.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i><span style="font-family: Arial;">Elymus mollis- </span></i><span style="font-family: Arial;">dune grass; dominant native grass on coastal beaches prior to
introduction of the invasive European beach grass<i><o:p></o:p></i></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i><span style="font-family: Arial;">Carex</span></i><span style="font-family: Arial;"> spp.-
wetland grasslike plant, many spp. and cultivars.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i><span style="font-family: Arial;">Juncus</span></i><span style="font-family: Arial;">
spp.- rushes; wetland grasslike plants.
Most common in our region, and also widely available in nurseries, is <i>J. effusus</i>, with tall, hollow, round
culms and attractive dark brown florets. Evergreen. Full sun to part shade.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">A somewhat smaller, very
attractive <i>Juncus</i> is <i>J. acuminatus</i>, Spike Rush, which is
semi-evergreen to deciduous.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<!--EndFragment-->Samihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18192671719592689432noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1480387558832873400.post-86257803309029719952013-08-15T09:11:00.000-07:002013-08-15T09:13:30.912-07:00Back-end Upcycling: dog poop composting<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">(an old article, a version of which was published in Back Home Magazine in 2010-- updates coming soon)</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Arial;">To dog owners, it’s just a
fact of life. What goes in must come out. Dog poop arouses ire in some
quarters, has been the cause of many a neighborhood conflict and inspired
municipal laws. Appropriate disposal of dog poop has come to be an emblem of
good citizenship. Signs urging poop pickup and dispensers of small plastic bags
for that purpose are a common sight in many public parks.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">Some people wonder what all
the fuss is about, in natural settings—after all, the ubiquitous plastic
garbage that graces our forests and beaches will be around for what amounts to
eternity (the shelf life for plastic being 650 years)- but poop is
biodegradable, right?<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">Alas, in addition to being a
social/aesthetic bone of contention, dog waste is a significant environmental
problem. Based on amount of waste per dog and dogs per US household, experts
estimate that our dogs deposit over six million tons of poop annually. Left on
the ground, feces can take up to a year to decompose. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">Nitrogen from feces (like
sewage and fertilizer runoff) joins storm water runoff and eventually ends up
in bodies of water. The result is eutrophication, in which excess nitrogen
causes blooms of algae that deplete the water of light and oxygen and raise
water temperatures, harming fish populations and aquatic plants. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">Dogs frequently carry
organisms that pose threats to human health. Several, including coliform
bacteria and encysted roundworms, can persist for a long time in the
environment, either in water or in soil. Particularly in warm weather and in
still water (puddles, lakes), bacteria can multiply and create health hazards.
Pollution by bacteria attributed to canine sources (identifiable by DNA
fingerprinting) is a major cause of closures of many beaches. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">Disposal of dog feces has
become a problem for many large cities, giving rise to local ordinances and
proposals for new solutions. While some cities and counties exhort citizens to
send dog waste to the dump rather than leaving it on the ground, in many places
it is considered problematic for landfills. It may constitute a large
percentage of total volume, and plastic bags containing feces may remain intact
for decades. Collectors object to the mess, smell and health issues associated
with it. It’s also problematic in sewer systems, where it clogs the works and
has necessitated additional equipment specifically to cope with it. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">Aversion to all manner of
manure is common, at least among westerners, with the exception of farmers and
one other growing demographic: gardeners. Many a gardener/dog owner has
thought, “All this manure—such a shame to waste it!” <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">Composting is the practice,
as old as horticulture, of mixing organic materials and facilitating their
decomposition, usually with the aim of producing a soil amendment. A pile of
composted or compostable poop quickens the pulse of many a gardener, knowing
the magic worked by manure for growing a beautiful garden. Suburban and city
gardeners may pay hard cash for bagged steer or chicken manure, bat guano or
“zoo doo”.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">In the past 20 years,
numerous dog waste composting programs have arisen across North America and in
Europe, with primarily environmental rather than horticultural aims:
decontaminating dog feces and greatly reducing volume. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">The area around Fairbanks,
Alaska is home to many sled dog kennels, and the canine residents produce large
volumes of feces that have caused environmental concerns. Since 1991, Ann Rippy
and associates at the Natural Resources Conservation Service in Fairbanks,
Alaska have worked with dog mushers in the area to compost dog waste from large
kennels. The large volumes of dog waste produced have made it possible to
achieve sufficient temperatures for efficient composting. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">Alaska’s Denali National
Park has been composting dog waste since 1980. The park has about 30 resident
sled dogs, depositing about 50 pounds of poop daily. The resulting compost is used
for ornamental plantings around the park, and also made available to the
surrounding community for horticultural use.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">In 1995 at Notre Dame de
Grace Park in Montreal, Canada, a group associated with a dog run began a
program to compost dog waste accumulated at the park. The program was volunteer-run and by 2009 was managing 14
bins, each containing about 200 pounds of dog waste when full. The project
produced about 2.5 tons of finished compost yearly, which was made available to
local gardeners for use on ornamentals. The resulting compost was best
described as a fertilizer due to its high nitrogen content, says Jim Fares, who
was active in the project. However, the volumes of dog waste and the methods
used were insufficient to achieve adequate killing of pathogens, and the
volunteers eventually ran out of steam, so the project is now dormant.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">In San Francisco, which may
have more dogs than human children, dog waste disposal and recycling have been
investigated by the city’s composting and waste collection company, Recology.
Inclusion of dog waste in a methane digester project encountered some snags.
Collection of sufficient volume, and exclusion of the ubiquitous plastic bags
were practical issues, and initial tests failed to produce enough methane to
make the enterprise financially viable. The project is now on a back burner, so
to speak—but will continue to be of interest for future development.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">Many cities across the US
and Canada now have commercial dog waste collection services. Rose Seemann, association
manager turned dog poop entrepreneur, founded Envirowagg and with her
associates began dog waste collections in 2007. The idea was to take
responsible disposal of dog waste to the next level—<i>upcycling</i>, (coined by McDonough and Braugart in their 2007
environmental book <i>Cradle to Cradle</i>):
the transformation of a less useful material into a more useful material. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">In 2009, the first bags of Doggone Good Compost
became available for sale to gardeners, and sales continue in 2011. Envirowagg
composting technicians use special equipment and careful monitoring to ensure high
temperatures sufficient to reduce bacteria and parasites to levels acceptable
to the EPA. The company began marketing a new product, Doggone Good Potting Soil in 2011. </span><span style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;">EnviroWagg sells its own brand of compostable dog
waste bags at local pet stores and online, and
also distributes printable eco-friendly bags to parks and open space
departments.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">Leon Kochian, a Cornell
University biology professor, initiated a dog waste collection program with at an
Ithaca, NY dog park in 2009.
Members of his dog owners association began collections at the park on
Earth Day. Dog waste is collected
in compostable bags provided at the park, and deposited in special containers.
The local composting company, Cayuga Compost, makes weekly pickups of the waste
and composts it in combination with yard waste at their 4-acre facility. The company hopes to produce safe,
high-quality compost for horticultural use. Proprietor Mark Wittig says they plan to test their first
batch in spring 2011. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-indent: .5in;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">Envirowagg’s Seemann and
others involved in scientifically monitored dog poop composting contend that
small-scale, DIY composting is unlikely to reach temperatures sufficient to
kill pathogens, in part due to insufficient volume and in part due to lack of
specialized equipment and expertise. For this reason, homemade dog waste
compost is recommended for use on ornamentals and landscaping only.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">Nevertheless, several
companies now sell home composters intended for processing dog waste. Some of
these incorporate vermiculture (earthworm composting); proponents say that
worms will efficiently decompose and decontaminate dog poop.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">In addition to composters, there
is an array of products to assist in dog waste disposal. One of the most
important for environmental and horticultural dog waste composting efforts is
the waterproof, compostable bag. This allows people to collect dog waste in a
convenient and reasonably sanitary way and dispose of it directly into
collecting bins. The Ithaca dog
waste collection project uses bags made of GMO-free corn by BioBagsUSA, which
also provides bags to restaurants for food waste compost collection.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">Businesses specializing in
dog waste collection have sprung up in many urban areas in the US and Canada.
With Envirowagg leading the way, it seems inevitable that more of these
businesses will take the next logical step and upcycle the waste into composted
horticultural gold.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<!--EndFragment-->Samihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18192671719592689432noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1480387558832873400.post-37691449731578731462013-06-14T12:11:00.001-07:002013-11-16T08:14:55.155-08:00propagating Gloriosa lilies<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNEY-VvGDUw8kYhVprBAah2jubOscOek8cectLoO4BbfGLHGWhI1v3pU6A-bEZzrSN4YtChHW1f0TamkQlowvH587YLOKVswkc4nKASpbZKHEp7x0POt30689buD9rV-gdzqVw1cboSXw/s1600/gloriosas.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="345" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNEY-VvGDUw8kYhVprBAah2jubOscOek8cectLoO4BbfGLHGWhI1v3pU6A-bEZzrSN4YtChHW1f0TamkQlowvH587YLOKVswkc4nKASpbZKHEp7x0POt30689buD9rV-gdzqVw1cboSXw/s640/gloriosas.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
Those extraterrestrial-looking flowers on the left are Gloriosas. These are large (perhaps 5" across) lilies that grow on climbing vines to 8 ft long. The vines cling to any objects they encounter with pealike tendrils. Even in very indirect light, mature vines may produce six or more flowers each. <br />
The flowers show a nifty evolutionary trick that decreases or eliminates self-pollination and increases "outcrossing", which is cross-pollination of genetically different members within a species. This increases genetic diversity and thus genetic health of the population. In Gloriosas and some other flowers, self-pollination is nearly impossible because the female receptor for pollen, the style, is longer than the stamens and bent away from them. <br />
There are two caveats when it comes to Gloriosas: first, cross-pollination of different flowers produced by a single tuber does not constitute outcrossing; the flowers are all genetically identical. Furthermore, when you raise captive Gloriosas, if you obtained the plants from a single source they are likely to have been vegetatively propagated and all the tubers will thus likely be genetically identical.<br />
That's okay: Gloriosas are self-fertile (will produce seeds once the mechanical barrier to pollination is overcome, regardless of genetic identity of the parent flowers.) <br />
Because of the nifty style arrangement, if you want these flowers to produce seeds, you will usually need to hand-pollinate them. This is easy to do when pollen is ripe (it will appear as a fluffy powder on the ends of the stamens). Use a water color brush to move pollen from the ends of the stamens (anthers) to the tip of the style (stigma).<br />
When you see a bulge forming below the now-dead flower, you know that seeds are developing. Wait until this pod becomes brownish and papery and begins to split, the seeds inside it dark red. You can then collect the seeds and plant them. They are stony little things, and germination may be enhanced by nicking them gently or rubbing them a little with sandpaper. Plant in moist medium (seed starting mix or potting soil). Bottom heat is ideal, though probably not essential. Germination proceeds erratically over a period of at least six months. <br />
Grow your seedlings in very well-drained medium kept somewhat moist. Tubers will develop under the soil, and these tubers will enlarge with time. You will get relatively short, slender, flowerless vines, then long slender vines, and gradually the vine stems will thicken. When the tubers become large enough, usually after several years, they will be sufficiently mature to produce flowers. Samihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18192671719592689432noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1480387558832873400.post-52479281829887931022013-06-14T11:56:00.000-07:002014-10-05T21:06:59.073-07:00soil matters: why cheap potting soil is no bargain<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhL2v75bdzSeiGScY9ihyphenhyphenFVlflBDpS6DO6HzRG86lfnJJm0CMZPDJYX9bVaoWJYmrP02aUtlWYPQp7xUrSIvdr5UIdowH5pxIBwEcJcSajFuCUxIVZkU-KYOrQFEZcqyrCn1dczFqXWnOw/s1600/blackgold3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhL2v75bdzSeiGScY9ihyphenhyphenFVlflBDpS6DO6HzRG86lfnJJm0CMZPDJYX9bVaoWJYmrP02aUtlWYPQp7xUrSIvdr5UIdowH5pxIBwEcJcSajFuCUxIVZkU-KYOrQFEZcqyrCn1dczFqXWnOw/s400/blackgold3.jpg" height="278" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
Years ago, I inadvertently ran an experiment. I had started 16 Oenothera (Evening Primrose) seedlings in small pots containing my usual brand of good potting soil at the time, Black Gold. When it cam time to move them to larger pots, I potted up half of them, and then ran out of soil. In a hurry, I zipped over to the local hardware store and bought a bag of their standard potting soil.<br />
Just three weeks later, the photo above was taken. The plants on the left were in Black Gold, while those on the right were in the cheap stuff. Plants in the cheaper stuff were pale yellowish green, with leaves less than half the size of those in better soil.<br />
There are several good brands of potting soil available these days; I use Gardner and Bloome and Gardener's Gold most often. Whitney Farms and Black Gold have both gone through multiple changes in ownership over the years, but are probably still good. <br />
Cheaper soils can actually harm your plants. It is also unwise to attempt to use soil dug from the ground, bagged compost, etc. for most container plants. Native soil is generally too heavy or too sandy for container use. Products sold for amending garden soil are not formulated for container use, or as a sole medium for growing plants.<br />
You can produce your own potting soil, with a bit of equipment and labor. If you use a lot of it, the effort may be worth it. Instructions can be found online. Samihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18192671719592689432noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1480387558832873400.post-32021263508734035662013-04-06T12:00:00.000-07:002015-02-16T08:32:51.706-08:00showy natives for your garden<h2>
<span style="font-size: small; font-weight: normal;">The following is an informal list of PNW natives that have value as showy ornamentals for small gardens. I sell many of these plants and provide professional landscaping services including design, installation and consulting. As a plant-lover, I enjoy growing any plants, native or not, that are attractive, interesting, less-common, and appropriate to the site. As a graduate-trained botanist, I have some expertise in the identification and use of natives in the landscape. </span></h2>
Flowers for shade to part sun<br />
<br />
The Saxifrage clan: <i>Saxifraga</i>, <i>Heuchera</i>, <i>Heucherella</i>, <i>Tiarella</i>, <i>Tellima</i>, <i>Tolmeia</i>, <i>Mitella</i>: a suite of perennials native to PNW woodlands, all shade-loving (though <i>Tellima</i> and some of the Saxifragas are more sun-tolerant than the others). With the exception of <i>Saxifraga</i>, leaves of this group are exceedingly hard to tell apart, being mostly more or less heart-shaped, pale green, and fuzzy. Flowers are typically small and white to pink, held in racemes on slender stems. For all of the saxifrages, ideal soil is moist, very well-drained, loam, sand, or gravel.<br />
<br />
<i>Anemone</i>- lovely woodland perennial. Several native species, most white, some blue to purplish, pink.<br />
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<i>Viola</i>- many native species- blue/violet, white and yellow flowering.<br />
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<i>Aruncus dioicus</i>- Goatsbeard- deciduous perennial in the rose family resembling <i>Astilbe</i> in its leaves and somewhat in its flowers, which are small and white on long feathery racemes. Flowering stems as tall as 6 ft. <i>Aruncus</i> is often seen on forest edges, on gravelly slopes with a supply of water. <br />
<br />
Bleeding Hearts- <i>Dicentra formosa</i>- deciduous perennial with heart-shaped flowers in pink, blooming in spring. The plant may go dormant in summer heat, but will persist until frost if kept shaded and moist. Spreads by seeds and rhizomes.<br />
<i>Corydalis</i>- <i>Dicentra</i> relative with tubular flowers; our native species are primarily yellow and pink. <br />
<br />
<i>Trillium</i>- <i>T. ovatum</i> is the most widespread species, but <i>T. chloropetalum</i>, <i>T. petiolatum</i>, and <i>T. albidum</i> are other PNW species. Take care when purchasing <i>Trillium</i>-- ask how they were obtained. This plant takes 5-7 years from seed to bloom, and some nurseries unfortunately poach rare plants from wild land. <br />
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False Solomon's Seal- two species, formerly <i>Smilacena racemosa</i> and <i>S. stellata</i>, now merged into <i>Maianthemum</i>. Tall woodland lilies with racemes of small white flowers followed by berries.<br />
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<i>Fritillaria</i><br />
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Groundcovers for shade<br />
Wild Ginger- <i>Asarum caudatum - </i>attractive, heart-shaped leaves stay close to the ground; unique brownish flowers hide under the leaves. <br />
Twinflower- <i>Linnaea borealis</i>- evergreen on delicate, trailing, slender woody stems. Opposite leaves are small, mid-green, glossy. Charming, tiny tubular pink flowers borne in pairs.<br />
Inside out Flower- <i>Vancouveria hexandra</i>- to 12" or so, soft green, attractive leaves, small white flowers on wiry stems in early summer<br />
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<i>Maianthemum dilatatum</i>- low deciduous ground cover, False Lily-of-the-Valley. Small erect spikes of white flowers over heart-shaped leaves with conspicuous parallel veins. Can be quite assertive in covering ground. Flowers followed by berries that change from light green to red.<br />
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Ferns<br />
All ferns prefer shade, somewhat moist and well-drained ground. The ubiquitous Sword Fern and Bracken are more tolerant of sun and dryness than any of the others, though both do better in shade.<br />
<br />
Full shade species:<br />
<i>Athyrium filix-femina</i>- Lady Fern, Latin species name means "Happy Woman". Tall, deciduous.<br />
<i>Adiantum sp</i>.- Maidenhair Fern- delicate, deciduous, with distinctive black, wiry stems. Very sensitive to sun, heat, dryness.<br />
<i>Blechnum spicant</i>- Deer Fern- handsome, semi-evergreen, sturdy fern, smaller and neater than the ubiquitous Sword Fern.<br />
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Flowers for sun to part shade<br />
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Annuals- <br />
<i>Collomia grandiflora</i>- to 2 ft, pincushion-like flowers generally yellow to orange, occasionally white. Rambunctious self-seeder.<br />
<i>Clarkia amoena</i>- one of several species of <i>Clarkia</i>. Very bright pink with petal spots, satiny finish, easy from seed.<br />
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Perennials<br />
Evening Primrose- <i>Oenothera spp</i>.-- numerous species in the PNW and elsewhere. In western/coastal PNW, our most common species are tall and bright yellow-flowering, biennial to perennial.<br />
<i>Sidalcea</i>- several species of Mallow, in the Hibiscus/Hollyhock clan. Pink (occasionally white), very showy.<br />
<i>Stachys cooleyae</i>- Pink Hedgenettle- plant of drainage ditches and seasonal puddles, likes moist, very well-drained, very full sun spots. Mid-green, slightly fuzzy leaves smell of horehound. Deep pink-purplish flowers attract hummingbirds. Spreads by rhizomes and self-seeding, rambunctious. May be prone to powdery mildew if given insufficient sun or ventilation.<br />
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Columbine- several NW spp, most common is <i>Aquilegia formosa</i>, which is orange to red. Woodland edges and moist meadows, likes full to part sun. <i> Aquilegias</i> in general hybridize freely and self-seed generously, so if you grow different species together, you will get babies not resembling the parents. Hummingbird plants.<br />
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<i>Campanula rotundifolia</i>- pretty blue-violet bell-shaped flowers on wiry stems to about 12". <br />
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Lupine- this is a large genus, with hundreds of species, including scores in the PNW. Two common ones are the very large <i>Lupinus polyphyllus</i>, with tall spikes of purple flowers, and the tall rock garden species <i>L. argenteus</i>, with silvery leaves.<br />
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<i>Penstemon</i>- Beardtongue- scores of PNW species, with tubular, usually purple (sometimes pink or red) flowers loved by hummingbirds. Particularly showy is Rock Penstemon, with deep pink flowers on short, bushy plants.<br />
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<i>Mimulus</i>- Monkeyflower- many native species, ranging from tiny <i>M. nana</i> (pink) to shrub forms, yellow and orange flowering perennials. Most common in our region is <i>M. guttatus</i>, moisture-loving plant to 3 ft tall with bright yellow flowers about 1-2" across.<br />
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<i>Iris</i>- numerous PNW native species, some hybridize. Most widespread is <i>I. tenax</i>, with stiff-ish evergreen leaves, purple flowers with variegation.<br />
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<i>Sisyrinchium</i>- small <i>Iris</i> relative, 'Grass Widows', several NW species, flower stems mostly around a foot high, grasslike leaves a little shorter. Flowers small, usually purple. One species, <i>S. californicum</i>, is shorter, with bright yellow flowers.<br />
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<i>Erythronium</i>- lily relative with various common names, including Fawn Lily, and the very confusing Dogtooth Violet (no relation to violets). One of the prettiest is <i>E. revolutum</i>, so named for its reflexed petals. Common names include Pink Trout Lily, Coast Fawn Lily. Occurs inland, east of Puget Sound, but more common along the coast, particularly in Oregon. Pink to white flowers.<br />
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<i>Lilium columbianum - </i>tall, nodding lily, gold to orange, with dark spots. One of the many very different lilies often called 'Tiger Lily'. Needs well-drained soil, full sun to dappled shade. Blooms for a couple of weeks mid-summer. May produce seedlings or bulblets. Like many lily family species, this has a complicated germination cycle and takes several years from seed to bloom. As with all lilies, needs protection from slugs and deer.<br />
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Shrubs<br />
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<i>Spiraea densiflora</i>- very showy, more compact than the more common species in our region, <i>S. douglassii</i>. Deciduous, attractive twisty twigs add winter interest. Clusters of small pink flowers.<br />
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<i>Ribes sanguineum</i>, Red-flowering Currant- deciduous shrub to 7 ft tall, 5 ft wide. Very showy deep pink flowers in pendant clusters in spring, followed by dark berries with a chalky coating. Needs excellent drainage, drought tolerant once established, most often seen at woodland edges in dappled sun/part shade. Several selected cultivars available in the nursery trade, characterized by variation in flower color from white to the almost purple-pink King Edward VII.<br />
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<i>Philadelphus lewisii</i>, Mock Orange- tall deciduous shrub with showy white flowers. Needs full sun; drought-tolerant once established. <br />
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Vines<br />
<i>Lonicera ciliosa</i>- our very showy native vine, Orange-Flowering Honeysuckle- perennial, deciduous. Will scramble 20 ft up trees. Leaves are opposite, oval; terminal pair join to form a disc below the clusters of bright orange, tubular flowers. Flowers are followed by orange-red berries.<br />
Great plant for hummingbirds and other creatures. Easy to propagate from cuttings or seeds.<br />
<br />
<br />Samihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18192671719592689432noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1480387558832873400.post-8212250966102786072013-04-06T11:18:00.001-07:002013-06-15T21:05:36.786-07:00gardening for birds and butterflies: notes and lists<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;">Attracting birds and
butterflies<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;">Many plants depend upon
animals for pollination and/or for seed dispersal. Hummingbirds and many
insects serve as pollinators, transferring pollen from one flower to another of
the same species while foraging for nectar (hummers, butterflies, and moths) or
nectar plus pollen (bees). Birds
help plants disperse their seed by carrying it around. They may inadvertently
drop seeds while in transit; some seeds are adapted to germinate after passing
through the avian GI tract.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;">Many bird and butterfly
species are threatened due to loss of habitat- particularly for migratory
species impacted by tropical deforestation. Agricultural pesticide use, also
impacts both insects and birds. When you provide food or breeding habitat for birds
and butterflies, you help to keep these species alive in a small but very
material way.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;">How do plants attract birds
and insects?<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;">Floral fragrance is a
mixture of volatile compounds released by flowers for the purpose of attracting
pollinators. As birds and butterflies have poor senses of smell, fragrance is
more noticeable in flowers that depend upon bees, moths, beetles, or
flies. Butterflies and
hummingbirds are attracted more by other cues, like shape, color, and
patterning. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;">Butterflies<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;">Use flowers for food source
(nectar); inadvertently pollinate<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;">Life cycle: Lay eggs, which hatch into larvae,
which feed on leaves. Eggs generally hatch into larvae in a few days.
Caterpillar phase may last from days to months, with several transitions.
Caterpillar then goes into pupa (chrysalis) phase and emerges as a butterfly.
Different species may overwinter in a dormant or hibernating phase, or
diapause, during any of these life stages. Diapause in pupal phase can last as long as nine months.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;">Butterfly phase as brief as
a few days (Spring Azure) to several months—perhaps ten months for Monarchs,
even more for a few Arctic species.
Average is two months.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;">Plants may serve as larval
food and/or as nectar for adult butterflies.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;">Other considerations-
butterflies need moisture, basking spots, protection from wind. Rocks in sunny spot, butterfly garden
sheltered by trees or building.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;">Pesticides in the bird and
butterfly garden- <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">If you want to provide
assistance to butterfly breeding, you tolerate some caterpillar damage. Usually it is limited in extent and
duration due to brief life cycle of larvae and tendency of species to
specialize. With larger species,
it may be recommended to have enough plants that larvae don’t eat themselves
out of a food source (Monarchs and Asclepias.) Bt, used to kill caterpillars on ornamental and food crops,
will kill butterflies. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">If caterpillar damage is
unbearable on some plants, you might want to assess what exactly is eating the
plant, and use Bt only to control that pest. (time and location of application
can limit effect on other spp)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">Most insecticides will harm
butterflies and birds. Birds can be harmed through direct contact, or by eating
bugs that have been exposed to pesticide.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;">Safer Soap will harm larvae;
residence time is very short so harm to lighting butterflies or birds is
probably minimal. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;">Praying mantids not
recommended; they eat beneficial insects including butterflies.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;">Exceptions: <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;">Diatomaceous earth is
completely safe for mammals and birds, and is actually being used to control
mites in bird nests. However, it is harmful to butterfly larvae. It can probably be used in a
butterfly-safe way by only applying it to the ground, and only when
caterpillars are not likely to be in the vicinity. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;">Neem Oil does not harm birds
or butterflies. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">Keep in mind that birds also
eat insects, including slugs; there have been cases in which agricultural
pesticide use actually resulted in population booms in target insects by
knocking out beneficial insects or birds. By attracting birds to your garden,
you get natural pest control services.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;">Larvae:<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Abutilon</span></b><span style="font-family: Arial;">-
Skippers<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Acanthus<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Achillea<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Alcea</span></b><span style="font-family: Arial;">-
Skippers, West Coast Lady, Painted Lady <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Anaphilis margaritacea</span></b><span style="font-family: Arial;"> (Pearly Everlasting)- American Painted Lady<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Asclepias </span></b><span style="font-family: Arial;">(Milkweed,
Butterfly Weed)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Aster<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Carex spp</span></b><span style="font-family: Arial;">
(Sedges)- Skippers<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Ceanothus<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Citrus<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Cornus<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Dicentra</span></b><span style="font-family: Arial;">
(Bleeding Heart)- Swallowtail<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Digitalis</span></b><span style="font-family: Arial;">
(Foxglove)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Echinacea<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Fragaria</span></b><span style="font-family: Arial;">
(Strawberry)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Hibiscus</span></b><span style="font-family: Arial;"> -
West Coast Lady<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Holodiscus</span></b><span style="font-family: Arial;">
(Ocean Spray)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Humulus</span></b><span style="font-family: Arial;">
(Hops)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Leucanthemum</span></b><span style="font-family: Arial;">
(Daisy)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Linaria</span></b><span style="font-family: Arial;">
(Toadflax)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Lupinus<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Lonicera<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Lantana<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Lavatera</span></b><span style="font-family: Arial;">-
West coast Lady <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Malva</span></b><span style="font-family: Arial;">
(Mallow)- West Coast Lady <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Malus</span></b><span style="font-family: Arial;">
(flowering Crabapple)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Medicago spp</span></b><span style="font-family: Arial;">
(Alfalfa)- Alfalfa butterfly<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Passiflora </span></b><span style="font-family: Arial;">(Passion
Flower)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Pinus <o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Populus</span></b><span style="font-family: Arial;">
(Cottonwood, Poplar)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Prunus</span></b><span style="font-family: Arial;">
(Cherry, Plum, Laurel)- Hairstreaks<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Ribes <o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Rosa<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Rudbeckia<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Salix</span></b><span style="font-family: Arial;">-
Mourning Cloak<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Sedum<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Sisyrinchium</span></b><span style="font-family: Arial;">
(Grass Widows, Blue-Eyed Grass)- Mardon Skipper<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Spiraea<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Tagetes<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Trifolium spp</span></b><span style="font-family: Arial;"> (Clover)- Alfalfa butterfly<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Viburnum<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Viola<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Wisteria<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">Also: grasses and sedges. A
large group of species, the Skippers, are identified by their preference for
monocot larval food; this could include lilies but in our area grasses and
sedges predominate. Sisyrinchium is host to one species. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">Adult butterflies:<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Abelia<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Abutilon<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Acer</span></b><span style="font-family: Arial;">
(Maple)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Achillea</span></b><span style="font-family: Arial;"> (Yarrow)-
Painted Lady<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Agapanthus</span></b><span style="font-family: Arial;">
(Lily of the Nile)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Agastache<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Ageratum<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Ajuga</span></b><span style="font-family: Arial;">
(Bugleweed)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Arbutus<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Arctostaphylos<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Armeria</span></b><span style="font-family: Arial;">
(Thrift)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Asclepias spp</span></b><span style="font-family: Arial;">- Monarch, Hairstreaks, Swallowtails<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Astilbe<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Buddleia</span></b><span style="font-family: Arial;">-
Painted Lady, American Painted Lady, Swallowtails, Admirals, others<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Calluna<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Campanula<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Carduus spp</span></b><span style="font-family: Arial;">
<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Caryopteris <o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Ceanothus<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Centaurea spp<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Choisya</span></b><span style="font-family: Arial;">
(Mexican Orange)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Chrysanthemum<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Cirsium spp</span></b><span style="font-family: Arial;">-
Alfalfa Butterfly<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Citrus<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Clethra</span></b><span style="font-family: Arial;">
(Summersweet)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Coreopsis<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Cornus spp</span></b><span style="font-family: Arial;">-
Alfalfa <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Corylus</span></b><span style="font-family: Arial;">
(Filbert, Hazelnut)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Cosmos spp<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Delphinium<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Dianthus</span></b><span style="font-family: Arial;">
(Pinks, Carnations, Sweet Williams)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Echinacea</span></b><span style="font-family: Arial;">-
Checkerspot<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Echinops</span></b><span style="font-family: Arial;">
(Globe Thistle)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Erysimum</span></b><span style="font-family: Arial;">
(Wallflower)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Erodium<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Escallonia<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Eupatorium</span></b><span style="font-family: Arial;">
(Joe Pye Weed)- Swallowtails<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Gaillardia</span></b><span style="font-family: Arial;">
(Blanketflower)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Hebe<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Hemerocallis</span></b><span style="font-family: Arial;">
(Day Lily)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Heliotropium</span></b><span style="font-family: Arial;">-
American Painted Lady <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Hyssopus <o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Kniphofia</span></b><span style="font-family: Arial;">
(Red Hot Poker)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Kolkwitzia<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Lantana</span></b><span style="font-family: Arial;">-
Swallowtails<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Lavandula<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Liatris<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Lobelia<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Lonicera<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Mahonia</span></b><span style="font-family: Arial;">
(Oregon Grape)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Monarda<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Nepeta<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Origanum</span></b><span style="font-family: Arial;">
(Oregano, Marjoram)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Penstemon<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Philadelphus</span></b><span style="font-family: Arial;">
(Mock Orange)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Phlox<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Potentilla<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Prunella</span></b><span style="font-family: Arial;">
(Self-Heal)- Skippers<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Rhododendron<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Ribes<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Rosmarinus<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Rudbeckia</span></b><span style="font-family: Arial;">
(Black eyed Susan, Gloriosa Daisies)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Salix</span></b><span style="font-family: Arial;">
(Willow)- <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Salvia<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Sambucus<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Scabiosa</span></b><span style="font-family: Arial;">
(Pincushion Flower)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Sedum spp<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Spiraea</span></b><span style="font-family: Arial;">-
Painted Lady <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Syringa<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Tagetes</span></b><span style="font-family: Arial;">
(Marigold)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Thymus serpyllum</span></b><span style="font-family: Arial;"> (Thyme)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Trifolium spp</span></b><span style="font-family: Arial;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Vaccinium<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Verbena<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Viburnum<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Vitex<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Zinnia<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">Hummingbirds<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">Use flowers for food source
(nectar); pollen rubs off on beak, head, or back of bird and is transferred in process of feeding at
one flower after another<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">In general, prototype hummer
flower is red and tubular, but other forms and colors may be just as
attractive. Hummingbirds are
selective about cost/benefit ratio for flower species they will revisit. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Abelia<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Abutilon</span></b><span style="font-family: Arial;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Acacia <o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Agastache<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Albizia<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Arbutus spp</span></b><span style="font-family: Arial;">
(Madrone, Strawberry Tree)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Arctostaphylos</span></b><span style="font-family: Arial;"> (Manzanita, Kinnikinnik)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Buddleia </span></b><span style="font-family: Arial;">(Butterfly
Bush)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Ceanothus<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Citrus<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Cotoneaster<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Crocosmia<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Delphinium<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Digitalis<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Eucalyptus<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Fuchsia<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Heuchera<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Hibiscus<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Kniphofia<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Kolkwitzia</span></b><span style="font-family: Arial;">
(Beautybush)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Lantana<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Lavandula</span></b><span style="font-family: Arial;">
(Lavender)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Lobelia</span></b><span style="font-family: Arial;">
(red-flowered spp)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Lonicera</span></b><span style="font-family: Arial;">
(Honeysuckle)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Lupinus<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Monarda</span></b><span style="font-family: Arial;">
(Bee Balm)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Pelargonium</span></b><span style="font-family: Arial;">
(Zonal Geranium)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Penstemon</span></b><span style="font-family: Arial;">
(many spp)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Phlox<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Phygelius<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Rhododendron spp<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Ribes sanguineum</span></b><span style="font-family: Arial;"> (Red flowering Currant)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Rosmarinus</span></b><span style="font-family: Arial;">
(Rosemary)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Rubus spectabilis</span></b><span style="font-family: Arial;"> (Salmonberry)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Salvia</span></b><span style="font-family: Arial;">
(Sage- many spp)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Sambucus</span></b><span style="font-family: Arial;">
(Elderberry)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Syringa</span></b><span style="font-family: Arial;"> (Lilac)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Weigela<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">Hummers also take small
insects around nectar hosts. Some
people make rotting fruit available, to attract insects for hummers. Butterflies are also attracted to overripe
fruit. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">Hummers are also attracted
to feeders<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">Winter ranges of some
hummingbird species may have been expanded by increase in feeders. Some warbler species also attracted to
hummingbird feeders. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">Rufous makes long migration
over many months, but can remember precise locations of feeders. Rufous has longest migration proportionate
to body size of any bird species in the world, from the Pacific Northwest
(southern BC to Oregon) in summer to southern Mexico in winter. Migratory route
is a loop, with southward leg running through the Sierras, northward leg along
the coast. Males arrive first
(February or March) and females a couple of weeks later. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">Rufous in particular has
excellent memory for feeder location<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">Feeder considerations<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">Perches seem to help, bee
guards seem to hinder<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">Red dye unnecessary and
possibly harmful; any red on or near feeder will help attract hummers’
attention, and once an individual bird knows the feeder is there, color doesn’t
matter at all. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">Change of fluid essential,
especially in warm weather. Change
daily or every couple of days to prevent growth of microbes. Cloudy water means bacteria have
developed. Fermented fluid can
cause liver damage in hummers.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">Recipes given vary a little,
but one part sugar to four parts water is most frequently recommended. Boil
water first to disinfect, then stir in sugar, let cool before filling feeder. Nutritionally enriched nectar is
available, recommended for use in winter; at other times hummingbirds can get
additional nutrition they need from plants and insects. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">Other birds<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">Plants provide food
(berries, thistles), nesting material, nesting sites, and cover from predators.
In turn, birds serve to disperse plant seeds. Landscaping can provide trees and shrubbery for cover and
nesting, fountain, pond or other water source, or birdbath, for drinking and
bathing.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">Some spp depend extensively
on human-provided housing eg Martins<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">Nesting boxes or shelves
provide safe spot for nests; availability of appropriate nest sites is a major
factor in population for many birds<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">Different spp have very
specific requirements in terms of site, distance from ground, size of entrance
etc<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">Plants can be chosen to
provide food for a variety of foraging birds, and feeders can provide
additional food, particularly during winter when plant food is scarce. Winter range of some bird species has
expanded due to widespread feeder use, and during very cold weather there is no
doubt that the supplemental food provided by feeders increases survival rates
in nonmigratory birds. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">Feeders for songbirds<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">Considerations- safety from
larger birds and from cats; some songbirds feed on butterflies (Grosbeaks and
Monarchs)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">Feeder should be in location
with shelter from wind, with some shrubbery or tree nearby for shelter from
predators. Should be visible from
your house, but not so close to area of frequent human activity that birds will
avoid it.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">Types of seed, types of
feeders<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">Tubular feeders good for
small birds and those comfortable with perching. Platform-type feeders appeal to all birds, may be easier for
some larger birds and those that typically feed on the ground, not
perched. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">Some birds eat mostly seed,
but will take insects and fruit when raising young. Some birds have more preference for insects, but usually
will also eat seeds or fruit. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">Suet feeders attract
Chickadees, Woodpeckers, Nuthatches, Wrens, Thrushes, Warblers and others. To
prevent Starling use, suet feeders can be hung in a way that requires birds to
hang upside down— most of these species can do this, but Starlings cannot. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">Seed feeders reliably draw
Juncos and an array of Finches.
Towhees and Varied Thrushes are drawn to platform and ground feeders. Many species are highly attracted to
black oil sunflower seeds, especially in winter. A variety of feeder types will increase the diversity of
bird species you see. It
sometimes takes a while for birds to notice a feeder; scattering seeds on
ground, on a roof, etc will help to draw attention to the location of the
feeder. Feeder activity may
decrease when natural foods in the neighborhood become plentiful, or when birds
are busy nest-sitting and may shift to a more insect-based diet to feed their
young. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">Hygiene for feeders and
seed- platform type feeders are particularly a problem, and regular cleaning to
remove bird feces is important to prevent spread of disease. In damp weather, all seed feeders
should be protected from rain, and if seed becomes wet it should be discarded. Suet feeders best not to be used in
warm weather, as warm suet gets on feathers and can cause an array of plumage
problems including baldness.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">Project Feeder Watch is
program sponsored by Cornell Laboratory of Ornithology, Audubon, and a Canadian
group, to involve citizens in collecting data on birds that visit feeders. Participants pay $12 a year, receive
instructions, bird identification materials, etc., and collect data on birds at
feeders November through April.
Participants in the program have documented e.g. changes in bird
distributions. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">Plants for birds<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Abies spp</span></b><span style="font-family: Arial;">
(Firs)- Chickadees, Junco, Jays, Towhee, Finches, Grosbeaks, Nuthatches. <b>Abutilon<o:p></o:p></b></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Acer spp</span></b><span style="font-family: Arial;">
(Maples)- Grosbeaks, Purple Finch, Pine Siskin. Nesting for nuthatches.
Chickadees, Orioles, Warblers, Wrens, Nuthatches, Brown Creepers probe for
insects. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Arctostaphylos spp</span></b><span style="font-family: Arial;">- Fox sparrow, Towhees<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Aster spp</span></b><span style="font-family: Arial;">-
Goldfinches, Sparrows, Chickadees, Nuthatches, Towhees<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Betula spp</span></b><span style="font-family: Arial;">
(Birches)- Junco, Pine Siskin, Chickadee, Finches, Towhees, Wood Ducks. Vireo,
Warblers attracted to insects on foliage. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Carex spp</span></b><span style="font-family: Arial;">-
Sparrows; also nesting <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Ceanothus spp</span></b><span style="font-family: Arial;">- Towhee, White-crowned Sparrow, Song Sparrow, Western Bluebird <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Cirsium spp</span></b><span style="font-family: Arial;">,
other thistles- Goldfinches, House Finches, other finches<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Cornus spp (</span></b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Dogwood)-
Pigeon, Flicker, Thrushes, waxwings, Purple Finch, Sapsuckers, Vireos,
Woodpeckers, Sparrows<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Crataegus spp</span></b><span style="font-family: Arial;"> (Hawthorn)- Grosbeak, Hermit Thrush, Purple Finch, Robin, etc. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Fragaria</span></b><span style="font-family: Arial;">-
Brewer’s Blackbird, California Quail, Towhee, Grosbeak<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Gaultheria shallon</span></b><span style="font-family: Arial;"> (Salal)- Wrentit, pheasant. Also nesting for many spp<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Juniperus spp</span></b><span style="font-family: Arial;">- Grosbeak, Waxwing, Finches, Robin, Jays, Flicker, Swainson’s Thrush.
Also nesting and roosting sites for many spp<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Lantana<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Lonicera</span></b><span style="font-family: Arial;">-
Robin, Grosbeak, Towhee, Waxwing, Chickadees, Finches. Orioles as well as
Hummers drink nectar. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Mahonia</span></b><span style="font-family: Arial;">-
Cedar Waxwing, Varied Thrush, Hermit Thrush, Robin<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Malus spp</span></b><span style="font-family: Arial;">
(Crabapple, Apple)- Waxwing, Robin, Purple Finch, House Finch, Grosbeak<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Myrica californica</span></b><span style="font-family: Arial;"> (California Wax Myrtle)- Flicker, Robin, Finches, Vireos, Chickadees,
Thrushes, Towhee, Warbleers,
Waxwing, Oriole, Swallows.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Parthenocissus spp</span></b><span style="font-family: Arial;"> (Woodbine, Virginia Creeper, Boston Ivy)- Flickers, Woodpeckers,
Robins, Thrushes, Chickadees. Also shelter and nest sites for smaller birds
including Finches.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Physocarpus</span></b><span style="font-family: Arial;">
(Ninebark)- Nesting for many species <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Picea spp</span></b><span style="font-family: Arial;">
(Spruce)- Grosbeak, Siskin, Crossbill, Chickadee, Nuthatch, Waxwing, Goldfinch.
Needles also eaten by some birds. Nesting sites for many.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">PInus spp</span></b><span style="font-family: Arial;">-
Chickadees, Grosbeaks, Nuthatches, Steller’s Jay, Junco, Pine Siskin,
Woodpeckers, Brown Creepers. Needles also eaten by some birds, and trees
provide favored roosting and nesting sites.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Populus spp</span></b><span style="font-family: Arial;">-
Goldfinches, Grosbeaks, Quail<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Prunus spp</span></b><span style="font-family: Arial;">-
Grosbeaks, Waxwings, Steller’s Jay, Oriole, Robin, Woodpeckers, Sparrows,
Flicker, Thrushes<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Quercus spp</span></b><span style="font-family: Arial;">-
Quails, Jays. Woodpeckers. Chickadees <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Ribes spp</span></b><span style="font-family: Arial;">-
Flicker, thrushes, Robin, Quails, etc<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Rosa spp</span></b><span style="font-family: Arial;">.-
Waxwing, Thrushes, Robin, Grosbeaks, Goldfinch, Vireo, Chickadees<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Rubus spp</span></b><span style="font-family: Arial;">
- (Blackberry, Raspberry, Thimbleberry, Salmonberry)- Waxwings, Thrushes,
bluebirds, Orioles, Grosbeak, Flickers, Fox Sparrow, Song Sparrow<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Rudbeckia spp</span></b><span style="font-family: Arial;">.- House Finch, Purple Finch, Goldfinch, Chickadee, Sparrows,
Nuthatches, Towhees<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Sambucus spp</span></b><span style="font-family: Arial;">.- Robin, Woodpeckers, Quail, Grosbeak,
Vireos, Waxwings, Finches, Nuthatches, Western Bluebird, Towhee, White-crowned
Sparrow<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Thuja plicata</span></b><span style="font-family: Arial;"> (Western Red Cedar)- Thrushes, Grosbeak, Nuthatch, also nesting<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Tsuga</span></b><span style="font-family: Arial;">
(Hemlock)- Warblers, Chickadees, Pine Siskins, Grosbeaks, Swainson’s Thrushes,
Robins. Also nesting sites for many species.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Vaccinium spp</span></b><span style="font-family: Arial;">. (Huckleberries, Cranberries, Blueberries)- Many birds, including
Chickadees, Robins, Orioles, Flickers, Towhees. Also cover and nesting sites
for Song Sparrows.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Viburnum spp</span></b><span style="font-family: Arial;">-
Cedar Waxwings, Flickers, Purple
Finches, Grosbeaks, Towhees, Hermit Thrushes, Robins<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Arial;">Vitis spp</span></b><span style="font-family: Arial;">
(grapes)- Many birds , including Finches, Robins, Towhees. Also nest sites, bark used for
nest-building.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b>Flowers for Hummingbirds:</b></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Hummingbirds tend to investigate bright pink or red flowers, but they will visit any nectar-bearing flower, including many that are not red and not obviously tubular.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Good hummingbird attractors include:</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">-Many members of the mint family, including Agastache, Monarda, Salvia. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">-Honeysuckle family members including Lonicera, Abelia, Weigela</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">-Fuchsia (hardy or tender); Phygelius ("Cape Fuchsia")</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">-Melianthus (Honey Bush)</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">-Lobelia (particularly the tall perennial species, including L. speciosa, L. cardinalis, L. tupa)</span><br />
<br />
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">For more information:<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">Books <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">Western Birds, Roger Tory
Peterson<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">Birder’s Handbook, Paul
Ehrlich et al<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">The Butterflies of Cascadia,
Robert Michael Pyle<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">The Guide to Butterflies of
Oregon and Washington, William Neill<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">The Bird Garden, Stephen W
Kress<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">Audubon Society of Port
Townsend- Admiralty Audubon, POB 666 PT 98368, Ron Sikes 385-0307<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">Project Feeder Watch,
Cornell Laboratory of Ornithology, 159 Sapsucker Woods Rd, Ithaca, NY 14850
(607) 254-2427, <a href="mailto:feederwatch@cornell.edu"><span style="color: windowtext; text-decoration: none; text-underline: none;">feederwatch@cornell.edu</span></a><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">Xerces Society (invertebrates)-
10 SW Ash St, Portland, OR 97204<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<!--EndFragment-->Samihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18192671719592689432noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1480387558832873400.post-31798554087872326062013-03-06T16:04:00.002-08:002013-04-07T07:09:24.723-07:00dirt-cheap gardening: horticulture on a budget<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">Whether it’s a way of
putting free, organic food on the table, or a way of creating beauty in your
yard, gardening can be more economical than you might think.</span><span style="font-family: Arial;"> </span><span style="font-family: Arial;">Here are some tips for low-budget horticulture,
with added dividends in opportunities to build community and to reduce
environmental impact.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">The Dirt Low-down<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">It all starts with
dirt. Any garden soil is improved
by addition of compost. You could
buy this at prices that inflate the true cost of your home-grown produce beyond
reason…or make it yourself. Don’t
have enough kitchen waste to make all the compost you need? Beg neighbors for their compostable
food waste and yard clippings.
Poop is gardeners’ gold, and free or inexpensive manure can be obtained
from many farms, ranches, rural fairgrounds, and zoos. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">A pickup is handy for
hauling wholesale soils and amendments: cost of wholesale materials can be a
fraction of that for those that are bagged, even if you pay for delivery. Don’t need a truckload? Consider splitting the purchase with a
friend or two.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">Potting soil can also be
purchased in bulk, or in bags at reduced price if purchased from a nursery
wholesaler. Again, teaming with
other gardeners to make a volume purchase can get everyone a price break. Purists may quibble, but for most
purposes it’s perfectly fine to recycle potting soil from deceased plants, as
long as they didn’t die of disease.
(Ask a nursery if you can dumpster dive; some will bristle, others might
be thankful to pay less to have their dead plants and discarded soil hauled
away.) The only exception, in my
opinion, is that I would not recommend using second-hand potting soil for
growing seeds or cuttings. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">One cost-cutting strategy
that is never recommended is using unamended soil from the ground in pots. Such soil will almost never have the
proper drainage and nutrient qualities for use in containers. However, with a little work you can
produce your own potting soil by combining garden dirt with your own compost,
sieved through a screen and heat-sterilized. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">Tools of the trade<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">Oh, those beautiful designer
garden tools with oak- or sustainably-grown-tropical-hardwood handles and
carbon steel “business” parts.
Lovely to look at, lovely to handle, but entirely unnecessary to create
the best possible garden. Look for
garden tools at garage sales, thrift stores and on Freecycle (a Yahoo group
where people offer, or ask for, free stuff)*. In a small town/rural area in Oregon, I discovered another
source of even high-end, professional type gardening tools and supplies: marijuana
growers, via the periodic Sheriff’s auction of confiscated items. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">Some nurseries and garden centers (including those at groceries and box stores) maintain
piles of plastic pots for recycling.
There are nearly always folks around with plant containers they’ll be
happy to pass on— post a request on Freecycle or some local bulletin
board. Give plastic food
containers a second life—plant seedlings in tofu tubs with holes poked in the
bottom for drainage, or the already-vented boxes that berries come in.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">Plants for free, or nearly<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">Here’s a pop quiz: you can spend $7-15 on a one gallon
perennial at your garden center, or you can produce the same kind of plant
yourself, for free. Which is the
better deal? <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">Growing your own requires a
bit of patience and there may be a learning curve, but you can fill your whole
yard with ornamentals or edibles for little or no cash. It doesn’t require great expertise or
even a greenhouse or any exotic equipment, only the willingness to pay
attention. The rewards for such
attention are great in the way of satisfaction as well as beauty and thrift.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">Growing your own<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">Many gardeners are familiar
with the winter ritual of poring over seed catalogues with all those gorgeous
full-color photos of flowers: pornography for plant-lovers. A packet of seed will usually cost
close to what you’d pay for a 4” pot, and a fraction of the price of a gallon,
and you have many more potential plants.
But your seed bill can quickly add up, and you’re left with a surplus of
seeds you may never use. Team with
a couple of friends to save on shipping costs, and split packets of seeds, or
trade partial packets to diversify everyone’s collection. Don’t be afraid of discounted seed
packets at garden stores. There
are exceptions, but keep in mind that most seeds, stored cool and dry, will
last for several years. Cheap or
free seeds can also be obtained through gardeners’ exchanges, many to be found
online. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">I rarely buy seeds any
more. I’m a compulsive seed
collector, always carrying bags and envelopes with me from mid-summer to fall,
watching for desirable seeds in public places, or (with permission, of course)
private gardens. A well-organized
botanist/gardener friend marks desirable wild plants she sees in wooded places,
makes notes on location, and returns when seeds are ripening (by which time the
plant can be hard to identify.)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">Many edible plants can be
grown from collected seeds, as well.
Everyone who has grown tomatoes, tomatillos, or any squash family
members has likely experienced next-year volunteers springing up in the garden
or on the margins of the compost heap.
Some of these may not closely resemble their parents, but may be quite
fine to eat. I’ve also grown
beans, endive and kale from second-generation seed. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">Consult books and online
sources for general seed-saving and seed-planting protocols and specific needs
of different species. Many plants,
most particularly quick-germinating annual flowers and vegetables, can be
started out of doors in spring.
Many perennials native to cold regions can be planted out of doors in
fall.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">Beg, Borrow, Rescue <o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">Not all plants I desire can
be grown from seeds (they may be hybrids or sterile cultivars, or just plain
difficult). Cuttings or divisions
may be the way to go. Make a deal
with someone whose garden you admire, offering them some of the plants you can
produce from cuttings taken in their garden. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">Most people who grow
perennials have divisions to give away in fall or spring. Garden clubs often have exchanges for
unloading those divisions, and again: free plants abound on the internet, on Freecycle and elsewhere. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">Watch for opportunities to
salvage plants from construction or logging sites on private or public land. I
treasure several large <i>Trillium albidum</i>
plants, multiplying happily over the years in a large pot. I rescued them from a privately owned
clearcut across the road from my house, where they were doomed within days to
suffer the same fate as a multitude of other relatively rare native plants at
that site. The US Forest Service
issues permits for plant collection on USFS lands; in many cases, collection of
small numbers of plants exclusively for personal use may be free. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Arial;">Check out end-of-season sales and year-round sale tables at garden centers. Pathetic but still viable plants can be had for a song. Avoid plants that look mushy and have a green film of algae on the soil surface- they may have been overwatered and will have rotted roots. When in doubt, check for roots-- turn the plant out of its pot if you dare, to see if there are live, whitish roots in there. Otherwise, just squeeze the pot-- if the contents are very loose, the roots may be long dead; if the content is tight, the plant may be potbound but alive.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<!--EndFragment-->Samihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18192671719592689432noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1480387558832873400.post-6024437049037434862013-02-27T17:43:00.002-08:002013-03-06T17:33:47.765-08:00pet owner alert: overnight stays in vet clinics<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #272827; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13pt;">It's
surprising to learn that some veterinary clinics pressure clients to leave pets
overnight following surgery when the clinic has no overnight staffing.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="background-color: white; color: #272827; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13pt;">I was
alerted to this problem several years ago by an article in Bark Magazine about
a court case in Portland. A client
left their dog in a clinic overnight following abdominal surgery. Unbeknownst to the client, the clinic
had no overnight staffing. Staff
forgot to place a protective cone on the dog before they left for the
night. During the night, the
groggy dog, still numbed by painkillers, chewed off its stitches and then
disemboweled itself. The dog was
still alive but in agony when staff arrived the next morning, and it had to be
euthanized. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="background-color: white; color: #272827; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13pt;">When
clinics fail to be candid about overnight staffing, clients are misled, and pay
extra to endanger their pets. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="background-color: white; color: #272827; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13pt;">I have
personally experienced this issue with a clinic in Sequim and another in
Poulsbo. The former situation involved a vet who also charged me a total
of $1200 to diagnose and treat an infection she knew my dog did not have. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="background-color: white; color: #272827; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13pt;">When the
dog experienced severe nausea due to an industrial-strength antibiotic given to
her for the infection she didn’t have, she spent the day at the clinic getting
fluids. The vet told me she would
call, but didn’t. When I called
close to closing time, she said I could pick the dog up in the morning. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="background-color: white; color: #272827; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13pt;">I asked
if the dog would be receiving treatment overnight. The vet said no.
I asked if there was overnight staffing. The vet admitted there was not. She kept saying, “I just think she will be safer.” I asked repeatedly how she imagined the
dog would be safer alone in a clinic for 16 hours than sleeping in my room with
me, where I could monitor her and take her to the ER if needed. She could not come up with an answer,
and repeated the same refrain. I
went to the clinic, retrieved my dog, and returned only once after that.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="background-color: white; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="color: #272827; font-family: Papyrus; font-size: 13.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Papyrus;">The
Poulsbo clinic has a staff member who routinely, aggressively pursues overnight
stays, issuing dire warnings about the safety of the pet, implying that
services will not be provided if the client does not cooperate, and never
discloses the lack of overnight staffing. She repeatedly insinuated that
the clinic director will not “permit” the animal to go home. She repeatedly implied that pets left
overnight in the clinic would have supervision, knowing that this was untrue.
She never directly admitted to the clinic staffing situation, but did not deny
it when confronted with the facts- absolutely no human presence in the clinic
during the night- that I had obtained from several other staff people. </span><span style="color: #272827; font-size: 13pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="background-color: white; color: #272827; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13pt;">On one
occasion, a rescue dog was to go home with its new owners, a professional
couple with many years of dog owning experience, and glowing references from
their own vet. The woman was a
nurse. Yet, this clinic employee
repeatedly insisted that the senior dog would be “safer” alone in the clinic
overnight than with her new owners.
When face to face and phone threats to me didn’t work, she tried to go
over my head by contacting the rescue director- who was aware of the situation
and agreed with me. She then tried
haranguing and intimidating the new owners. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="background-color: white; color: #272827; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13pt;">As a
result of this most egregious incident, the rescue and I took our subsequent
veterinary needs elsewhere.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="background-color: white; color: #cc2e78; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13pt;">ALWAYS
ask in detail about overnight staffing before you leave your pet in a clinic.
If you don't get a clear answer, ask someone else. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="background-color: white; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="color: #cc2e78; font-family: Papyrus; font-size: 13.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Papyrus;">You
cannot be forced to leave your pet overnight. </span><span style="color: #272827; font-size: 13pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="background-color: white; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="color: #cc2e78; font-family: Papyrus; font-size: 13.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Papyrus;">If you
encounter a clear instance of misleading communcations about this issue,
contact your state's veterinary licensing board.</span><span style="color: #272827; font-size: 13pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="background-color: white; color: #272827; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13pt;">The
question remains why veterinary clinics are not consistently required to
be candid about overnight staffing or lack thereof. </span><span style="background-color: #939598; color: #272827; font-family: inherit; font-size: 13pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<!--EndFragment-->
<!--EndFragment--><br />
<!--EndFragment--><br />Samihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18192671719592689432noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1480387558832873400.post-61100733109716336032013-02-25T19:29:00.000-08:002013-03-07T08:16:26.091-08:00dog experts debunking dominance<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">(random fonts and spacing courtesy of Blogspot.)</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">"If the only tool you have is a hammer, everything looks like a nail."</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="color: #272827; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Papyrus;">Since the 1980s, the idea of "dominance" has
become overwhelmingly popular in thinking about dogs. While dominance
would certainly appear to be relevant to dogs, ideas about this have been
simplistic and sometimes just plain baseless. Ethologists tell us that
much of the discussion has been based on inaccurate observations of captive
wolves, incorrectly extrapolated to wild wolves and then misapplied to the
distinctly different critter, the domestic dog. For a good discussion of
the problems with dominance theory, see Carmen Buitrago's article <a href="http://www.clickersolutions.com/articles/index.htm"><span style="color: windowtext; text-decoration: none; text-underline: none;"><b><i>Debunking the
Dominance Myth</i></b>.</span></a></span></div>
<span style="color: #272827; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Papyrus;">
</span><br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Reality TV-style dog training guru Cesar Millan has made
"dominance" a household word, but legions of authorities in the
worlds of dog training and dog behavioral studies have much to say about the
problems with his approach. For more on this, see articles by widely
published dog trainer Victoria Stilwell and by animal behaviorist, trainer and
author Patricia McConnell, in the September/October 2011 issue of </span><b style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><i>Bark</i></b><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">.
The issue is also discussed in a recent Bark interview
with John Bradshaw (see </span><a href="http://thebark.com/content/qa-dog-sense-author-john-bradshaw" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="color: windowtext; text-decoration: none; text-underline: none;"><b>http://thebark.com/content/qa-dog-sense-author-john-bradshaw</b></span></a><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">). Another
dominance detractor is Alexandra Horowitz, the well-known scientist and author
of the new book on doggie cognition, Inside of a Dog.</span></div>
<span style="color: #272827; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Papyrus;">
</span>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="color: #272827; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Papyrus;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></span></div>
<span style="color: #272827; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Papyrus;">
</span>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="color: #272827; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Papyrus;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Jean Donaldson's 12- year-old classic on dog training using
behavioral principles and positive reinforcement, <b><i>Culture Clash</i></b>, is
brilliant, logically tight, scientifically rigorous, passionate and often very
funny. It includes a short discussion on dominance. Now, with Ian Dunbar, she
has produced a DVD critiquing the Millanesque idea of dominance, <b><i>Fighting
Dominance in a Dog-Whispering World</i></b>.</span> </span></div>
<span style="color: #272827; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Papyrus;">
</span>
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<span style="color: #272827; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Papyrus;">
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<span style="color: #272827; font-family: Arial; font-size: 13.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Papyrus;">Like my
Dad told me long ago, "If it seems too good to be true-- it is."</span><span style="color: #272827; font-family: Arial; font-size: 13.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Verdana;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<span style="color: #272827; font-family: Arial; font-size: 13.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Papyrus;">Veterinarians
are highly-paid professionals. Beware a service that claims (as Just
Answer did in my case) to offer an involved assessment from a veterinary
specialist, late at night, within 15 minutes of the request, for $15. </span><span style="color: #272827; font-family: Arial; font-size: 13.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Verdana;"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span style="color: #272827; font-family: Arial; font-size: 13.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Papyrus;">At that point, JA showed me a teeny tiny "answer" that they claimed was the answer to my question, and they told me that I would be able to read the answer once I paid up. Using a magnifying glass, I found that the teeny tiny text shown was actually a question about a human medical issue. </span><br />
<span style="color: #272827; font-family: Arial; font-size: 13.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Papyrus;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<span style="color: #272827; font-family: Arial; font-size: 13.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Papyrus;">I found a
Just Answer response online to a question about mutts vs purebreds. The
"vet" gave an answer that revealed s/he had not seen the inside of a
Biology 101 classroom, and had badly misunderstood what s/he had read in a
hasty internet search. Many if not most high school graduates are aware
of this very rudimentary principle of genetics: small gene pools lead to
inbreeding and cause greater likelihood of genetic defects manifesting. But
the pseudovet in this exchange got it backward, and averred that a smaller gene
pool was better.</span><span style="color: #272827; font-family: Arial; font-size: 13.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Verdana;"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span style="color: #272827; font-family: Arial; font-size: 13.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Papyrus;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<span style="color: #272827; font-family: Arial; font-size: 13.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Papyrus;">Google
"Just Answer scam" for plenty of other examples. </span><span style="color: #272827; font-family: Arial; font-size: 13.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Verdana;"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span style="color: #272827; font-family: Arial; font-size: 13.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Papyrus;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<span style="color: #272827; font-family: Arial; font-size: 13.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Papyrus;">It is most
likely that JA uses poorly-paid people with no specialized education, oncall at
all hours to do quick internet searches and come up with answers for worried
pet owners. Real vets would not be available for this. JA routinely first promises answers for very little money, then badgers people to pay more. I have seen JA answers that did appear to have been written by a professional; real vets may be called in when users hand over serious cash. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<span style="color: #272827; font-family: Arial; font-size: 13.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Papyrus;">If your
pet is seriously sick, there is no substitute for professional treatment, but
you may be able to treat some minor problems at home.</span><span style="color: #272827; font-family: Arial; font-size: 13.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Verdana;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<span style="color: #cc2e78; font-family: Arial; font-size: 13.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Papyrus;">You can,
in fact, find a lot of good information on the internet, for free. Look
for sites sponsored by professional organizations, or by vets whose full names,
license credentials and physical addresses are displayed on the site.</span><span style="color: #272827; font-family: Arial; font-size: 13.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Papyrus;"> Don't pay Just Answer to do your internet search
(and possibly misunderstand the results) for you.</span><span style="color: #272827; font-family: Arial; font-size: 13.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Verdana;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<!--EndFragment--></div>
<!--EndFragment-->Samihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18192671719592689432noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1480387558832873400.post-4865831623545684372013-02-22T16:34:00.001-08:002013-02-23T20:42:37.485-08:00"Licensed pet sitters": no such animal<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<span style="color: #272827; font-family: Verdana; font-size: 13.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Papyrus;">Beware
pet sitters who make claims about being "licensed" pet sitters. Depending
upon the wording and emphasis, this is sometimes a deliberately misleading form
of self-promotion. Technically: there is no such thing; a pet sitter may
have a business license, but there is no pet sitting license; no one is
licensed as a pet sitter per se. </span><span style="color: #272827; font-family: Verdana; font-size: 13.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Verdana;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<span style="color: #272827; font-family: Verdana; font-size: 13.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Papyrus;">Neither
Washington nor any other state has a pet sitting license. There is no
such license with any legal standing, anywhere. One clever online group
issues pretty certificates via mail order that are made to appear as
"licenses", but these are wall decorations. The only license
that pertains to pet sitters is the general business license required of all
small businesses in Washington. </span><span style="color: #272827; font-family: Verdana; font-size: 13.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Verdana;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<span style="color: #272827; font-family: Verdana; font-size: 13.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Papyrus;">"Bonded
and insured" sounds grand, but bonding is unlikely ever to be relevant to
any pet sitting situation, and liability insurance has limited application: it
is only likely to be important should a pet sitter do major damage to your home
or its contents during a visit. </span><span style="color: #272827; font-family: Verdana; font-size: 13.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Verdana;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<span style="color: #272827; font-family: Verdana; font-size: 13.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Papyrus;">Many
pet-oriented businesses, including some large doggie day cares, do not carry
liability insurance because the cost of such insurance greatly exceeds the
payout any such business would be likely to make in the event of a court case. Unfortunately,
it is usually still true that if someone causes the demise of your companion
animal, your maximum potential damage award in court is limited to the market
value of your pet. </span><span style="color: #272827; font-family: Verdana; font-size: 13.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Verdana;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<span style="color: #272827; font-family: Verdana; font-size: 13.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Papyrus;">Your
best bet is to minimize the likelihood of harm to your pets or your possessions
by choosing a pet sitter who is honest, reliable, sane, possessed of a
reasonable amount of common sense, and not a drug user or drunk. There's
no way to guarantee any of this, of course, but a background check is a good
start-- then, check with your friends, and check your gut reaction. </span><span style="color: #272827; font-family: Verdana; font-size: 13.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Verdana;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<!--EndFragment--></div>
<!--EndFragment-->Samihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18192671719592689432noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1480387558832873400.post-84025977462672076322012-04-25T10:36:00.001-07:002015-02-25T14:05:15.276-08:00Hooved locusts: random notes on deer in the garden<div class="MsoNormal">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial;">Deer are a problem for
gardeners throughout the Northwest, but on Bainbridge Island they seem a
particularly voracious and indiscriminate bunch. </span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial;">Much of my work requires finding plants that deer will not eat, or will not eat much. Beleaguered home owners may doubt it, but it is possible to plant a colorful, attractive landscape that does not look like free lunch to the Hooved Ones.</span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: Arial;">As a landscaper, at North Coast Natives I offer a
Deer Munch Guarantee—if it turns out that the plant is eaten by deer any time
between planting and fall (or if planted late in the season, then any time
through the next fall) I will remove it and replace it with a better bet for
deer resistance, or credit your account. </span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: Arial;">The only fail-proof
deer deterrent is a tall fence, but if fencing is not an option- what then?<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">Various measures (blood
meal, commercial applications containing coyote urine, etc.) are said to repel
deer. They may be temporarily
successful, but most are expensive, labor-intensive, and ultimately futile.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">The remaining strategy depends upon plant selection. Lists of “deer-resistant” plants abound on the internet, but
I find that many of the plants included in these lists prove to be favorite
delicacies for Bainbridge Island deer.
They’ll walk a mile for a Heuchera. Astilbe leaves are left mostly alone, but the flowers are
munched. <o:p></o:p></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial;">Though it's listed as deer-resistant, </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial;"><i>Aucuba</i></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial;"> (known to many gardeners by the name of a popular cultivar, Gold Dust) is eaten to the ground by deer. </span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial;">Much of this damage is seasonal: <i>Aucuba</i> is shorn closely by March, but rebounds during summer, when more appealing forage is available both in the woods and in people's yards.</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">Deer do not instinctively
“know” which plants are toxic, or which don’t taste good. It’s all empirical, and, one must
assume, to some extent individual.
The size of the deer population, time of year, and what plants are
available nearby are additional factors that may affect how picky your herds
will be.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">Nevertheless, there are some
reliable rules regarding plant species, plant groups, and general characteristics
associated with plants that are almost never eaten (the best you can hope for!)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">Deer avoid plants with
pungent, acrid or aromatic foliage.
<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial;">This includes nearly all
members of the mint family- including true mint and many of the culinary herbs. Deer will generally not even nibble Oregano, Thyme, Lavender, Russian Sage
(<i>Perovskia</i>), all the true Sages (<i>Salvia</i>), Catnip, <i>Agastache</i>, Rosemary, <i>Stachys </i>(Hedge Nettle and Lamb's Ears) etc. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial;">Germander, a
non-aromatic mint, is eaten by deer. (And while the munchingest deer on Bainbridge ignored a large stand of <i>Monarda</i> (Bee Balm) in the woods for years, I hear of deer elsewhere that grooved on the same species).<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;">Deer reliably avoid
nearly all members of the Daisy family, due to the acrid smell of leaves and
flowers: daisies, asters, sunflowers, <i>Ligularia</i>, marigolds, <i>Echinacea </i>(Coneflower), dahlias, and many
others. While slugs seem particularly fond of this family, I have never seen deer damage on anything in the Daisy family.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;">While deer do not
instinctively know which plants are toxic, plants that are toxic enough to
cause immediate unpleasantness will not be eaten a second time. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial;">Nearly all members of the
buttercup family are at least somewhat toxic, some quite deadly. Hellebores do not get nibbled; the leaves are tough, and all parts of the plant are profoundly toxic. Other buttercup relatives that are rarely if ever munched include <i>Delphinium</i>, monkshood, anemones, and <i>Beesia</i></span><span style="font-family: Arial;"> . (Beesia's flowers may be nibbled slightly, but nothing more.) Unfortunately, again-- while deer turn up their noses at the Buttercup gang, slugs seem quite fond of the leaves of these plants.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial;">Also quite toxic and avoided consistently by deer are many or
most members of the heather and barberry families (manzanita, salal, madrone, </span><i style="font-family: Arial;">Rhododendron, Mahonia, Vancouveria, </i><span style="font-family: Arial;">etc</span><span style="font-family: Arial;">.) </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Arial;">Deer will also usually (not always) avoid the Euphorbias, which are often (not always) mildly toxic.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;">Deer avoid foliage with
unpleasant “mouth feel”, including very fuzzy or tough/leathery leaves. These also happen to be characteristics
often associated with drought tolerance in plants.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;">Deer will leave most
hard-textured, evergreen grasses and most sedges alone. Most conifers are safe,
as are maple and birch leaves, though trunk damage from antlers is not
uncommon. Deer like to browse on
dogwoods, however, and will eat leaves and bark of <i>Ceanothus</i>. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;">A plant’s being native or
non-native has no particular correlation with its edibility. Elderberry and Red-flowering currant
are evidently quite palatable, as one would expect. All members of the Rose family are appealing to deer, including native roses, Serviceberry, Thimbleberry and Salmonberry. (As a rule, if humans will eat it, deer </span><span style="font-family: Arial;">will be delighted to eat it as well).</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;">Deer
are also happy to browse on members of the Mallow family, though those with
coarse leaves (like Hollyhocks) might not be at the top of the list. Deer LOVE most members of the lily familiy-
true lilies, Hostas (if the slugs leave any behind), tulips. Exceptions are the very pungent Alliums, and the very toxic <i>Veratrum</i> and <i>Zigadenus</i>. Deer are less fond of irises, but will
eat some iris kin. <i>Crocosmia</i>
flowers seem to be yummy. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;">When researching the
potential survival of a landscape plant on Bainbridge, I have grown less
inclined to believe claims of “deer resistance” for many plants, particularly when those claims are made by people who
wish to sell you the plant. I look
instead for anecdotal reports of what deer DO eat. If any deer anywhere has eaten this plant, the Bainbridge
Island deer will surely love it.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;"> <o:p></o:p></span></div>
Samihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18192671719592689432noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1480387558832873400.post-66367747879342338682011-12-15T15:24:00.001-08:002014-10-24T08:28:29.830-07:00INSIDE OF A DOG: an opinionated annotated biblidography, under construction<div class="MsoNormal">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial;">“Outside of a dog, a book is a man’s best friend.</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial;"> </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial;">Inside of a dog, it’s too dark to read.”</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial;"> </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial;">Groucho Marx</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;"><i>Inside of a Dog, </i></span><span style="font-family: Arial;">Alexandra Horowitz- First of all, I applaud Horowitz for her choice of title—though I am sure I thought of stealing it first. Ethologist Horowitz reviews scientific evidence on the cognitive and perceptual world of dogs, their senses, social behavior, etc., to reach new understandings about the canine <i>umwelt</i></span><span style="font-family: Arial;"> (as she terms it- "world view"). Nicely written accounts of research by Horowitz herself and many others are interspersed with lovely passages that look like excerpts from a journal of close observations of her own dog. Smart and thought-provoking.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;"><i>Bones Would Rain From the Sky</i></span><span style="font-family: Arial;">, Suzanne Clothier- Another great title. By turns pragmatic and philosophical/spiritual, a lovely meditation on an interspecies relationship and training approach grounded in respect. Look for a passage in which gutsy Clothier confronts abusiveness of harsh training methods promoted by Vicki Hearne. She reviews an essay in Hearne’s <i>Adam’s Task</i></span><span style="font-family: Arial;"> in which the author gloats about subjecting her dog to near-drowning as a “cure” for hole-digging. (Think water-boarding.) Mysteriously, Clothier seems to have published no other full-length books. She is on the internet.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial;"><i>Rin Tin Tin the life and the legend</i>- Susan Orlean. By the author of another book about obsession, <i>The Orchid Thief </i>(inspiration for the film 'Adaptation'). Here, Orlean weaves together biography, social history (of America and Europe in the first decades of the 20th century; of early responses to the movies, and of the changing relationship of humans to dogs), and meditations upon interspecies love and loss, canine and human mortality, and the evanescence of history. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;"><i>Bandit: Dossier of a Dangerous Dog</i></span><span style="font-family: Arial;">- Vicki Hearne. Brilliant, controversial, and dead too young, philosopher and dog trainer Hearne researched the furor over pit bulls and found some intriguing, highly quotable things reflected in statistics. The book is unique in touching upon the much-ignored topics of how class and race intersect with cultural attitudes about dogs. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;"><i>The Other End of the Leash</i></span><span style="font-family: Arial;">- Patricia McConnell. First full-length book by behavioral scientist and dog trainer, until recently long a regular columnist for <i>Bark</i></span><span style="font-family: Arial;">. McConnell is always intelligent, insightful, down-to-earth, touchingly candid about her own experiences, and often quite funny. In this book, she touches on differences between canine and human assumptions about the world. Her series of photos of dogs enduring the embraces of their peeps is priceless.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;"><i>For the Love of a Dog</i></span><span style="font-family: Arial;">- Patricia McConnell. McConnell affirms the state of being "in love" - not just with dogs in general, but with a particular dog. Without either pathologizing or descending into sentimental anthropomorphic projection, she discusses the possible reasons for the power of such bonds, and their value in human lives. I found this book a little in need of trimming, but loved it for McConnell's characteristic blend of smarts, warmth, and compassion.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;"><i>The Culture Clash</i></span><span style="font-family: Arial;">- Jean Donaldson. A classic widely admired among dog training and animal behaviorist professionals. Donaldson gives strong arguments for a training approach resting entirely upon positive reinforcement and behavioral shaping. Step-by-step instructions for using clicker training for specific tasks, like getting your dog to "play fair" in games of fetch. Smart, passionate and often very funny, but probably lost wider readership due to overly dense, sometimes overly technical language. See the trenchantly witty page on dominance theory. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;"><i>The Truth about Dogs</i></span><span style="font-family: Arial;">- Stephen Budiansky. Science journalist Budiansky gives us a well-written and highly readable, often witty exploration of dog evolution, cognition, and genetics-- and of their relationship to us two-leggers.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial;"><i> </i></span><br />
<i style="font-family: Arial;"><span style="font-family: Arial;"><i>Dog Years</i></span><span style="font-family: Arial;">- <span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: normal;">Mark Doty. Poet, academic and memoirist recounts the period following the death of his longtime partner from AIDS. Two cherished dogs also die during the course of the story. Doty speaks with wisdom and candor about grief, depression, and the special quality of the canine-human bond.</span></span></i><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial;"><i><span style="font-family: Arial;"><i>The Story of Edgar Sawtelle</i></span><span style="font-family: Arial;">- <span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: normal;">David Wroblewsky. Hamlet-inspired first novel, about a mute boy and a group of dogs. I read little fiction, and I generally find ways of avoiding any story or book or movie in which a dog dies. I slipped up, and furthermore, I slipped up bigtime just after the death of the canine love of my life, reading both this and Mark Doty’s Dog Years</span></span><span style="font-family: Arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: normal;"> in a few days. I do not recommend doing that, but I do recommend this book. The prose is lovely, with deft depiction of places and people and dogs. Foreshadowing is perhaps a bit heavyhanded, but does prepare one a little for the experience of moving from foreboding to devastation. That said… the portrayal of dogs as unique personalities, the meditations upon interspecies relationship, and the presence of the matriarchal dog Almondine as the moral center of the book—all make this a book that may stay with you for a long time after reading it. I predict there will be dogs and children named Almondine.</span><o:p></o:p></span></i></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial;"><i><span style="font-family: Arial;"><i>My Dog Tulip</i></span><span style="font-family: Arial;">- <span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: normal;">J.R. Ackerley. Gay British writer’s 1956 memoir of how a dog changed his priorities. Basis of a 2009 animated film adaptation with the same title.<o:p></o:p></span></span></i></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-style: italic;"><i>We Think the World of You</i></span><span style="font-family: Arial;"><i>- </i>J.R<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: normal;">. Ackerley. Fictionalized version of the first part of the Tulip memoir, adapted into the 1988 film of the same name, starring Alan Bates. </span><i><o:p></o:p></i></span></span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial;"><i><span style="font-family: Arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span">Paws and Reflect- exploring the bond between gay men and their dogs</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: normal;">, edited by Neil Plakcy and Sharon Sakson. An uneven collection that does not remotely fulfill the promise of the subtitle: all of the writers are gay men, but none explores or illustrates anything specific to gay men and their dogs. Missing are the better-known writers (Mark Doty, Augusten Burroughs, Bob Morris and Mat Zucker, among others) who have written such pieces, although there is a piece by Edward Albee. </span></span></i></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial;"><i><span style="font-family: Arial;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: normal;">Mostly, these are the kind of affectionate, detail-heavy memoirs of loved dogs that you'll hear at any dog park. The writing is in most cases unexceptional, but all of the contributors clearly share a feeling that dogs are important, and that their own dogs are exceptional. Mostly not great literature, but fine for spending some time in the company of people who share our love of dogs.</span></span></i></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial;"><i>The Company of Dogs</i></span><span style="font-family: Arial;">- edited by Michael J Rosen.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;"><i>Dog People/ Writers and Artists on Canine Companionship</i></span><span style="font-family: Arial;">- edited by Michael J Rosen.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;">Two books with wonderful writing, mostly nonfiction personal narratives, and some photographs. Highly recommended. Profits go to support the Company of Animals Fund, which gives grants to humane agencies.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial;"><i>Unleashed/poems by writers' dogs</i>- edited by Amy Hempel and Jim Shepard. Poems by 64 well-known writers about important dogs in their lives, in all but one instance written from the perspective of the dog. Most are accompanied by photos of the dogs with their peeps. In less skilled hands, this could have been an invitation to cloying or maudlin sentimentality or cutesiness; but this volume is full of beauty and humor and insight. Another book contributing to the Company of Animals Fund.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;"><i>The Dog Observed/ Photographs 1844-1988</i></span><span style="font-family: Arial;">- edited by Ruth Silverman. 140 years of photos of dogs from all over the world, including professional works and anonymous snapshots. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;"><i>Mondo Canine</i></span><span style="font-family: Arial;">- Jon Winokur. A miscellaneous compendium of very short narratives, quotable quotes, and pictures. Appears to be a coffee table book compiled with little thought, probably with the aid of numerous subcontractors. Suffers from a lack of citations and lack of cohesiveness. Winokur has made some mysterious choices, e.g. quoting without comment or context from people known for their questionable training methods widely considered abusive. Most other material is harmless, and the book could provide the kind of unchallenging time-filling stuff we enjoy when confined to a hospital bed.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;"><i>What the Dogs Have Taught Me</i></span><span style="font-family: Arial;">- Merrill Markoe. Humorous essays about life with dogs. Markoe is an extremely funny woman of my generation, famously the disgruntled long-ago exgf of David Letterman. She has written a couple of novels that are also much about dogs and women, but she’s far better as a (more or less) nonfiction essayist of the canine-centered domestic scene.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;"><i>Dog Love</i></span><span style="font-family: Arial;">- Marjorie Garber. English professor and cultural commentator Garber gathers together a nearly exhaustive compendium of dog lore, primarily from literature, biography and history. While the masses of material from diverse sources (testament to what can be accomplished with a small army of grad students) present plenty of food for thought, what's missing is synthesis into any unifying themes, ideas, or hypotheses. Definitely worth a read, however. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;"><i>Good Dog. Stay.-</i></span><span style="font-family: Arial;"> Anna Quindlen. It seems possible that this slender volume was conceived as a coffee table book, but I don’t care. And though it turned out (as I should have guessed from the title) to be much about doggie mortality, I forgive it, sort of. Beautiful and insightful.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;"><i>Pack of Two</i></span><span style="font-family: Arial;">- Caroline Knapp. Part personal narrative, part journalistic investigation, an exploration of the power of the human/canine bond. Raw honesty, provocative inquiries, moving affirmation for the dog-besotted. Knapp unfortunately died of cancer at age 42. <o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial;"><i>Let's Take the Long Way Home</i>- Gail Caldwell. Memoir by Caroline Knapp's best friend, about their bond built upon several commonalities (both were successful professional writers, and both were recovering alcoholics) and a mutual love of dogs. Much about friendship, and the varieties of intimacy. Beautifully written.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;"><i>Dog is my Co-pilot</i></span><span style="font-family: Arial;">- editors of Bark. A collection of short nonfiction dog-focused personal narratives by many well-known writers who have graced the pages of Bark Magazine, including Maxine Kumin, Steve Kuusisto, Ann Patchett, and Rick Bass. Pretty much perfect.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;"><i>Howl</i></span><span style="font-family: Arial;">- editors of Bark. Another compendium from Bark, this time very short pieces with an emphasis on humor: Merrill Markoe, William Wegman, Pam Houston, Kinky Friedman, Dave Barry, and many others. Great fun.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;"><i>Flush</i></span><span style="font-family: Arial;">- Virginia Woolf. One of Woolf’s lightest, and surely her shortest novel, a “memoir” narrated by Elizabeth Barrett Browning’s dog.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;"><i>Travels with Charlie</i></span><span style="font-family: Arial;">- John Steinbeck.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial;"><i> </i></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial;"><i></i></span><br />
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<i style="font-family: Arial;"><span style="font-family: Arial;"><i>Travels with Lizbeth</i></span><span style="font-family: Arial;">- <span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: normal;">Larry Eighner. Middle-aged, overweight gay porn writer and former social services employee Eighner spends two years homeless, mostly in the urban Southwest, with his beloved black Lab, Lizbeth. Quirky, often sharply observed meditations on the social services bureaucracy and society generally, a protocol for dumpster diving, and gentlemanly codes of behavior for some sketchy milieus. A constant is his moving devotion to his dog under the most difficult of circumstances. Eighner continued as Lizbeth’s guardian and loyal best friend until her death at age 12. </span></span></i></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;"><i>Faces</i></span><span style="font-family: Arial;">- Vita Sackville-West and Laelia Goehr. Full page closeup photos of dog breeds, with short facing essays by West, famous as a lover of Virginia Woolf but publishing this in 1961, long after Woolf’s death. Opinionated, digressive, personal, highly anthropomorphizing, and charming. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;"><i>Woman’s Best Friend</i></span><span style="font-family: Arial;">- edited by Megan McMorris- extremely uneven and disappointing collection. It would be nice to have a book illuminating the relationship between women and dogs. This is not that book. The contributors are nearly all demographically similar (white, upper-middle-class, married, 20- to young 30-something, with young children; a significant percentage work for the same handful of fitness magazines). Quality of writing is inconsistent. A few contributions lack even any evident affection for dogs. A small handful of stories are worth reading; look for it at the library.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial;">-not to be confused with:</span><br />
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</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial;"><i>Woman's Best Friend- a celebration of dogs and their women</i>- edited by Barbara Cohen and Louise Taylor. A nice coffee table book, short written pieces (all in first person, but have the look of being interview-based or highly edited) with facing-page photos. Photos are credited to a large number of photographers. All text and photos are fine, if few are outstanding. A few of the women featured are recognizable as dog-involved writers and other professionals. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial;">Snippets:</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;">Sherman Alexie’s several retellings of the wrenching very short story of his childhood dog possibly named Oscar, who had to be shot because no one in the family could afford a vet. See <i>The Lone Ranger and Tonto Fistfight in Heaven</i> and <i>The Absolutely True Diary of a Part-time Indian.</i><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;">Mary Oliver’s numerous poems about her dogs, perfect vehicles for her meditations upon nature and mortality.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial;">Periodicals: </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Arial;"><i>Bark</i>- some 20 years old now, this has been described as "the New Yorker for dog lovers". A host of well-known writers and artists are represented. Every issue contains fiction, nonfiction, art, photography, and news. Updates on scientific perspectives, training issues, food and nutrition, medical issues. There is also a massive web site, and most articles from the last several years of the magazine are available digitally. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Arial;">Movies:</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Arial;">It's hard for a cinephile and dog lover to find movies that are artistically respectable and that do not rely upon either sugary sentimentality, silly humor, or easily-manipulated three-hanky tales of dog death. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial;">The very best film with a dog in a pivotal role is an old classic, <i>Umberto D</i>, 1952, by Italian neorealist director Vittorio De Sica. The titular character is an old man struggling with poverty and mounting despair, while trying to take care of not only himself but his beloved small dog. Lovely, realistic depiction of an interspecies relationship.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial;">A 2008 film, <i>Wendy and Lucy</i>, likewise gives us a realistic portrait of a dog/human relationship affected by poverty. This time the human protagonist is a young homeless woman, played by Michelle Williams. The low-budget film directed by Kelly Reichardt was critically well-received. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial;"><i>Amores Perros</i>, a larger-budget 2000 film by Mexican director Inarritu, deservedly received a good deal of acclaim. The film has been titled in English "Love is a Bitch", but the director has said that this is a mistranslation. Three interlocked stories are tales of violence and of dog/human love bonds. Opening scenes with graphic and violent dog fighting may be difficult; in fact, on my first viewing I stopped the movie and only returned to it 8 years later. I still had to leave the room a couple of times. However, the point of view of the film is definitely NOT pro-violence of any kind. Though rationally I know that in most films I'm likely to encounter, all violence is simulated, I found it enormously helpful and detoxifying to read descriptions after the fact of how the violence in this film was simulated. The dogs shown "fighting" were actually playing, they wore see-through muzzles just in case anybody got carried away, ferocious sound effects were added on, and editing did the rest. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial;">The film is powerful and complex, definitely worth at least one viewing.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial;"><i>We Think the World of You</i>- 1988 British film starring Alan Bates, based on the earlier part of the JR Ackerley memoir <i>My Dog Tulip</i>. Lovely understated film about the healing power of love for a dog.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial;">In 2009, this was followed up by <i>My Dog Tulip</i>, a quirky animated film of the whole story from the memoir by the same name. The script is very faithful to the book, with the narrator (Ackerley) voiced by Christopher Plummer. There's a good deal of fairly frank discussion and cartoon depiction of assorted biological functions, and some indescribable sequences in which crudely-drawn dog/human hybrids behave doggishly... never mind, you just have to see it. The story focuses on the happy early period of Ackerley's 15 year relationship with this, his first and last dog and only friend.</span></div>
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Samihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18192671719592689432noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1480387558832873400.post-4051610992698509552011-09-17T08:13:00.000-07:002015-02-16T09:01:31.560-08:00container plantings in winterWith winter approaching, it's time to look around at any container plantings you have and think about protection. Some plantings can be kept looking good throughout the winter with little protection needed, while others may go dormant and/or may require kinds of protection that render them less useful for ornamental purposes.<br />
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Even shrubs, trees, and hardy perennials need extra protection if grown in containers, because containers make roots more vulnerable to freezing, and may as well lack sufficient drainage in periods of heavy rainfall. The problem is inversely proportionate to container size.<br />
A giant container-- something at least the size of a large garbage can- may need little or no extra care, though recently installed plants may appreciate a draping of protective fabric if freezing temperatures threaten.<br />
Smaller pots, down to gallon size, should be grouped next to or behind larger pots, or next to the side of a building. Plants that will go dormant can be mulched with straw, if this is not an aesthetic problem.<br />
Plants in pots smaller than gallon size are very unlikely to make it through the winter outdoors. They should be transplanted to larger containers, or taken indoors.<br />
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Make sure that all your planters have adequate drainage holes. This is important at all times, but especially in rainy weather. Well-draining planting medium is important; for plants less tolerant of sogginess, extra perlite, woody material, or pumice can be mixed with the soil.<br />
The popular idea that broken pottery or gravel at the bottom of a container promotes drainage is not, unfortunately, correct, and can in some instances even be detrimental. Make sure that any dishes under pots are removed-- those dishes are most useful for indoor containers; in winter they can cause a plant to drown. <br />
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Wooden containers generally provide excellent drainage, and are not subject to shattering from freeze/thaw cycles. Metal containers, if properly slotted for drainage, can also be good. Ceramic containers, often the first choice aesthetically, may be vulnerable to cracking unless they are labeled "frost-resistant"-- which generally doubles the price. Terra cotta containers, because they absorb moisture, are particularly vulnerable to winter damage.<br />
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Larger pots- those between gallon size and garbage can size-- should be huddled together, and can be individually wrapped in bubble wrap (pot only), sometimes with burlap to protect the plants above the soil. (Be warned that plastic wrap kept consistently over the tops of plants can seal in moisture and lead to fungal diseases or rot.)<br />
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For some outdoor plants in containers, rainfall is the major challenge of winter. Some of these will overwinter better if kept under the house eaves, or even turned sideways. On the other hand, some winter fatalities in the ground and in containers, result from desiccation that occurs when the soil freezes and plants cannot take up moisture.<br />
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Garden centers often promote "annual" plants for container use, but in fact many of these are tender perennials. Some of them can be overwintered indoors. Some can be kept actively growing in a sunny window all through the winter, while others may go dormant.<br />
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Tender fuchsias are the kind used in hanging baskets, with large flowers- different from the hardy fuchsias, which are more erect shrubs with smaller flowers. Tender fuchsias will go dormant, and will not surive the winter outdoors, but can usually be overwintered if wrapped in burlap and kept in a garage or other sheltered location.<br />
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Cannas are mostly pretty tender here, though they can sometimes overwinter in the ground in a sheltered location with extra mulch and blanketing with burlap for freezing periods. However, a canna can be overwintered in a container indoors. With enough light and warmth, the plant may continue to bloom until December, and will then be an attractive foliage house plant until spring.<br />
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<i>Cordyline</i> is a tender plant that can easily be mistaken for <i>Phormium</i> (New Zealand flax), except that the leaves of <i>Cordyline</i> grow in a whorl (like Yucca), whereas <i>Phormium</i> leaves occur in "fans". <i>Cordyline</i> will not as a rule make it through the winter in our area, but can overwinter happily as a houseplant, like its cousin the <i>Dracaena</i>.<br />
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At North Coast Natives, I offer custom-designed and readymade container gardens, with an emphasis on perennial and evergreen material for containers that look good and provide color year-round. These may include brightly-colored foliage and some winter-blooming plants. Contact me for photos or an appointment to view samples. I can design and install single containers or whole suites of containers for your home or business, and offer rotating container arrangements designed for business settings.<br />
<br />Samihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18192671719592689432noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1480387558832873400.post-79714195567787944812011-09-17T07:50:00.000-07:002011-09-17T07:50:33.868-07:00fall plantingMany homeowners and neophyte gardeners think that the best time to install new plantings is in spring. In fact, with enough care you can plant almost any time of year here in the Northwest except the dead of winter-- but fall is the very best time to plant or transplant shrubs, trees, and most perennials. It is also the best time for starting many things from seed.<br />
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There are two reasons why fall works best for getting plants off to a good start.<br />
1. Most importantly-- plants have a stronger start if they can develop robust root systems before putting on a lot of shoot growth. Plants have a sort of energy budget-- more flowers mean less leaves, more shoots mean less roots. In fall, plants are moving toward dormancy, beginning to slow down or shut down completely in shoot growth. As long as temperatures remain mild, root growth will at the same time increase.<br />
2. With cooler, wetter weather, soil moisture is more constant and transpiration (loss of moisture through leaves) is minimized. So general stress and transplant shock are minimized. <br />
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Here in the Puget Sound region, we can usually count on at least a month of mild temperatures if we plant sometime during September or (ideally) October. The only plants we may want to get into the ground a little earlier (August or September) are those that are a bit tender. <br />
Plant acquisition for fall installation is a good news/bad news situation: many garden centers are offering sales, sometimes radical reductions in prices, for all plants. On the other hand, inventory is likely to be limited, and availability of special orders will also be limited.<br />
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New fall plantings should be well-mulched, and if temperatures plunge close to freezing or below, extra protection may be called for. Particularly for plants installed after the end of September, for the next couple of months you may wish to throw a tarp, blanket or Reemay covering over them when nights are expected to be very cold.Samihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18192671719592689432noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1480387558832873400.post-64912485772490859182011-08-09T12:05:00.000-07:002011-08-09T19:17:29.212-07:00Variegated leaves in garden plants<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgC2hZfC_5dWFdOUTwvhj_-9xxcLp5FJcsrl9Y7xyhb0VIM59v6DA8qNOTXW0xlheDGaHGmBYV8SXGFdqnfpL_ayoQkX6e-a86HKBGm57r86_-8gq6NbMepuAvBjVYYZVDrXTik54LWsdw/s1600/variegated+leaves.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="264" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgC2hZfC_5dWFdOUTwvhj_-9xxcLp5FJcsrl9Y7xyhb0VIM59v6DA8qNOTXW0xlheDGaHGmBYV8SXGFdqnfpL_ayoQkX6e-a86HKBGm57r86_-8gq6NbMepuAvBjVYYZVDrXTik54LWsdw/s320/variegated+leaves.jpg" width="320" /></a>This scan of several leaves from one stem on a Japanese maple illustrates several aspects of variegation. Reversion of leaves to solid green plagues all fans of variegated plants- but note that more-green leaves are also often much larger, as well as thicker. White areas on these variegated leaves show brown tips- sun scorch, even in a mostly-shaded location. (Chlorophyll protects leaf tissues from radiation damage, much as melanin works in human skin and eyes.) Pink areas on the white leaves are aesthetically pleasing manifestations of red anthocyanin pigments (often a stress response in plants generally) that are more visible when not masked by the green of chlorophyll.<br />
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Because chlorophyll is necessary for photosynthesis, which produces sugars- in turn the building blocks of starches and cellulose, the major components of leaf structure--- whiter leaves and leaf segments are often thinner and smaller in area. In addition, when a leaf contains both white and green areas, it may appear crinkled due to the uneven distribution of structural materials. In this scan, we also see that curvature of lobes is produced- always pointing toward the white side of the white/green division, in which the boundary is usually a vein.<br />
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Pale-colored, chlorophyll-poor leaves are, in addition to these structural effects and sun scorch vulnerability, also sometimes more vulnerable to disease and insect predation. While too much sun can damage them, they also suffer a disadvantage in low-light conditions due to their low photosynthetic capacity.<br />
For these reasons, variegated and variant-color plants, while they can be of considerable aesthetic value in the landscape, may require much more care and may not live as long as the green-leaved species from which they were derived. Samihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18192671719592689432noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1480387558832873400.post-25227354673083827512011-07-25T14:26:00.000-07:002015-08-14T18:47:08.002-07:00A guide to life cycle terminology and some nursery industry quirksA basic glossary, to begin with---<br />
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<b>Annual</b>: a plant that lives for only one season, usually deteriorating rapidly after flowering and going to seed.<br />
<b>Biennial</b>: a plant that lives for two seasons, usually producing only a circle (“rosette”) of basal leaves the first year, followed the second year by a flowering stem. After blooming and setting seed, the plant dies.<br />
<b>Perennial</b>: a plant that lives for more than two seasons. This technically includes all trees, shrubs and ferns as well as many grasses and all bulbs. However, in garden centers, the "perennials" section usually contains only the smaller, non-woody plants. <br />
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<b>Herbaceous</b>: generally applied to perennials; an herbaceous perennial is one that does not have woody stems.<br />
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<b>Evergreen</b>: often a source of confusion to neophyte gardeners, this does not refer to conifers particularly, but to any and all plants that retain their leaves through the winter, including some short perennials grown for their flowers (Thrift, Hellebore) and many broadleaf shrubs (<i>Rhododendron</i>) and trees (Madrone). <br />
<b>Deciduous</b>: losing leaves in winter. Refers not only to trees like maples, but to many shrubs and most herbaceous perennials. <br />
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And now for the quirks:<br />
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Many plants sold in nurseries are routinely labeled inaccurately. <br />
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Common nursery plants that are biennial, but nearly always labeled and sold as perennials: most of the mulleins (<i>Verbascum</i>), all cultivars of <i>Digitalis purpurea</i> (by far the most common species of foxglove found in nurseries). As these plants most often set seed extravagantly, one can usually expect to have more plants, which will bloom two summers after the parent plant does- but most biennials are sold when ready to bloom, which means that they should if anything be marketed as annuals. Furthermore, some popular, showy cultivars of <i>Verbascum</i> are sterile hybrids that will not have offspring. The only way to perpetuate them may be to take cuttings. <br />
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Very tender perennials—these are seldom accurately labeled in nurseries I have checked, but the errors go both ways. That is, they may be sold without comment in the perennials section, and at perennial prices—or they may be sold in the annuals section without clarification. These include <i>Cordyline</i>, Purple Fountain Grass, <i>Angelonia</i>, and many of the Salvias.<br />
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Indeed, one of the quirkier aspects of any garden center, increasingly, is the relative dearth of true annuals in any annual department. I suspect that one reason may be the short shelf life of the true annuals. As a rule they must be sold as very small starts, and by the time they are mature enough that the uninitiated plant buyer can see what they're becoming-- they are ready to quickly bloom, set seed, and die.<br />
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By far the majority of plants to be found in any large store are tender perennials, but there are also a significant number of hardy perennials sold as annuals—one of the most perplexing categories of quirks:<br />
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Snapdragons- these are universally sold as annuals; there is not a single truly annual snapdragon on the planet, and most sold in nurseries are completely hardy. It is true that they appear to be short-lived, though 3 years is not unusual, and generous self-seeding is typical.<br />
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Asters- nearly all asters available horticulturally are perennials. Occasionally, one may find asters in sixpacks or seed packets that seem to be convincingly annual, but all others are uber-perennials, living potentially for many years, and the vast majority of nursery asters come from two extremely cold-hardy species. Yet, they are often marketed as annuals, and wholesalers’ tags may perpetuate this notion by failing to list hardiness zones.<br />
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Diascias- most sold in nurseries are hardy perennials labeled for zone 7 (occasionally 8), but they are often found in annuals sections. Like their close relatives the snapdragons, life expectation is short and variable, but plants may survive at least 3 years.<br />
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Petunias- this is a complicated group and those in the nursery trade are mostly hybrids, but the parent species are mostly perennials and in truth petunias often turn out to be perennials in warmer climates. <br />
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Chrysanthemums- most, including all of those sold in large numbers at grocery stores in late summer—are perennials, though some may be tender-ish or shortlived.<br />
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<i>Rudbeckia hirta</i> cultivars- often sold as annuals, never annual, all quite hardy. Possibly short-lived or temperamental in cold, wet climates.<br />
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Morning glories- several of the most popular cultivars come from a very hardy perennial, <i>Ipomoea tricolor</i>.Samihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18192671719592689432noreply@blogger.com0